By Alice G. Hall
A goat breeder, whether he or she is knowledgeable of the subject or not, is dabbling in the field of genetics (the science that deals with inherited characteristics). A little extra knowledge on the background of the science of breeding can go a long way toward improving future dairy goat characteristics and type.
The basic building blocks of genetics are genes. Genes are complex protein molecules made of DNA and RNA (acids that are templates or patterns for inherited characteristics.) Genes are lined on chromosomes (colored bodies) found in the nucleus of each cell in the body as beads on a string. Chromosomes, and therefore genes, are found in pairs in all the cells of the body except the sperm and eggs. The testicles and ovaries send the chromosomes through meiosis, a process whereby the pairs are split up so that each sperm and each egg carries only one half of a pair of chromosomes, and, therefore, genes. The sperm and eggs are called "gametes" because the number of genes and chromosomes in them are haploid (single) rather than diploid (double or paired) as they are in all other cells.
When two gametes, a sperm and an egg or ovum, unite, the haploid genes and chromosomes find partners and once again become diploid in the zygote (fertilized egg). As the zygote grows, divides itself, and multiplies in number of cells (in the process called mitosis), the cell retains its diploid state. Mitosis is the process by which a body grows and wounds are healed. Meiosis occurs only in the ovaries and testicles as sperms and eggs are manufactured. Each goat sperm and egg contains 30 chromosomes, so each normal body cell contains 60 chromosomes, or 30 pairs.
Genes come in two types, dominant and recessive. Dominant genes overshadow or modify recessive genes when the two are paired on a chromosome. In goats, the white color found in Saanens seems to be dominant over most other colors, so if a Saanen or mutant white gene is paired with a brown or black gene, the kid will probably be white. Such a mixed combination is called heterozygous. That means that a dominant gene and a recessive gene are paired in the genotype. If two dominant genes are paired together, or if two recessive genes are paired together, they are said to be homozygous. Recessive genes must be homozygous to show in the phenotype.
Phenotype is the product that is visible. For example, is the resulting kid black or white? Genotype is what the genes carry, i.e., are they paired homozygous or heterozygous? If a pair of genes is heterozygous, the breeder does not know what the genetics of the goat are. He only sees the dominant that shows in the phenotype. He does not know if that phenotype reveals heterozygosity or homozygosity of the dominant. A breeder who uses inbreeding increases his chances of homozygous recessives, and, therefore has a better chance of seeing recessives in the phenotype.
Horns are recessive, for example. For a goat to have horns, it must have received a gene for horns from both parents. If a horned animal is bred to a hornless one, the genes carried in the hornless kid are heterozygous for hornlessness if the hornless parent is homozygous. If the hornless parent is heterozygous, 50% of the kids will probably be homozygous horned, and the other half will be heterozygous hornless. Since hornlessness is dominant and so easily inherited, one might wonder why most goats seem to have the recessive trait for horns. That is because inbreeding among hornless animals often carries with it a "lethal" gene. Most lethal genes result in the outright death of the animal in a normal environment. The "lethal" associated with hornlessness is for hermaphrodism, so, although it is not lethal or deadly to the individual with the gene, it becomes deadly for the line in breeding inability.
One pair of chromosomes determines the sex of the kids. Females carry two "X" chromosomes, which are both the same length. Males carry a "Y" chromosome, a short or half chromosome, paired with the "X" they get from their mothers. Since only males manufacture "Y" gametes, it is the male that determines the sex of the offspring. Females can only produce females. Males can produce either sex.
Generally, what happens during breeding is that a randomly selected sperm penetrates an egg, also randomly selected, and the two produce a new individual. If the breeder is working with heterozygous parents, he might end up with any number of combinations in the kid. The results would be very unpredictable. This is what happens with outcrossing or cross-breeding. The kid would be a combination of all kinds of genes, only the dominant of which would show. The breeder would have no idea what recessive genes are masked in the genotype of the kid. A breeder can continue to keep the recessives masked and work with dominants as long as he continues to outcross, but he will continue to have unpredictable results unless he happens to hit on some lucky combinations of homozygous dominants.
If a dairy goat breeder is working with homozygous parents, either dominant or recessive, his results will be fairly predictable. Homozygous dominant parents will both pass on to the offspring dominant characteristics, so the kid will much resemble his parents. Homozygous recessive parents, if both are homozygous recessive, will also pass on predictability by passing on recessive traits that will be homozygous in offspring phenotypes.
Homozygosity, and therefore, predictability, is the aim and advantage of inbreeding. Inbreeding is the breeding together of closely related animals in the same line. Breeders who choose to inbreed must be willing to cull heavily at the beginning because, according to research done with Holstein cattle, it's much easier to inherit many undesirable traits than a positive trait. For instance, tall stature (a positive trait in all breeds of goats except Pygmies and Nigerians) is 47% heritable, while short stature is 51% heritable. Pygmy and Nigerian breeders would have an advantage here, and others would have to be very sure to cull out short-statured animals early in the program or be stuck with them forever, since it seems to be somewhat dominant.
Pygmy goat breeders might also have an advantage in breeding for head, as short head is 44% heritable in Holsteins, while the ideal Holstein head is only 17% heritable. According to Holstein research, a sloping rump is far easier to get than an ideal rump, a good fore udder is much easier to breed for than a good rear udder, posty hind legs are more common than ideal hind legs, and a topline that slopes toward the withers is easier to get in breeding than an ideal topline. Since so many "negative" traits are dominant, a breeder interested in inbreeding has to be willing to cull what is undesirable. Cull in this case, means to kill! It does not mean sell to a 4-H member.
If a breeder starts with hybrids-outcrossed or crossbred animals, his first step toward inbreeding is called backcrossing. This is the same as up-grading, breeding a crossbred kid back to one of its purebred parents. Line- breeding is often used by breeders who hesitate to breed extremely close but want to tie into some common relatives. Linebreeding involves the breeding of animals in the same line, like cousins. As a breeder becomes more and more inbred with his herd, his results become more and more predictable-unless he hits a mutation.
A mutation is a sudden, unexpected change that is heritable. Mutations are very often dominant and are passed on easily to the offspring. Mutations are also often lethal, so their heritability is a moot point.
So, if a breeder enjoys working with the unknown and unexpected results, he will enjoy outcrossing. If a breeder would prefer a more definite direction, he would rather use linebreeding. If a breeder knows exactly what he wants, has animals that promise to give that, and if he is willing to cull heavily to retain it, inbreeding might pay for him.
Breeders who enjoy linebreeding and inbreeding can "do all their breeding on paper" before they ever match a doe to a buck. Not only are the results somewhat scientific, they are also artistic.
All these pedigrees are actual pedigrees of purebred animals. The experience of some breeders who have used the "patterns on paper" program indicate that the most successful breedings are the ones in which the pedigrees show triangular patterns. The half-sibling pedigree shows a good triangle. More triangles become apparent as the pedigree is extended to further generations. Straight-line tie-ins don't seem to be as satisfactory in inbreeding. No matter what kind of breeding program a person decides to follow, it is wise to remember that genes determine potentials of the offspring, but the environment determines how much of that potential is reached. A kid could be bred for outstanding stature and production, but if his environment doesn't support him properly, his genetic potential will never be reached.
Previously published in Dairy Goat Guide, also found in Fundamentals of Improved Dairy Goat Management.
Sunday, 27 July 2008
Hernandez' Dairy Goats
Juan Hernandez, along with his wife, Maria Feliz, and his 32-year-old son, Juan Junior, owns and manages a herd of about 80 purebred Saanen dairy goats in the town of Agustin Gonzales, Mexico. Agustin Gonzales is in the Mexican state of Guanajuato, a 20-minute drive from the beautiful colonial architecture and cobbled streets of San Miguel de Allende. When Hernandez and his family began milking goats almost 20 years ago, they made cheese on their farm. Because San Miguel de Allende attracts tourists from all over the world, the family was able to find a good local market for their goat cheese in the city's excellent restaurants. Recently, however, Hernandez purchased a 500 liter, refrigerated, stainless steel, bulk tank.
"Depending on what time of year it is I can fill the bulk tank in one or two days," Hernandez said. "Then I put the cold milk in my pick-up truck and drive to the cheese plant. It's only a 20-minute drive."
The milk stays cold on the short trip even though there is no refrigeration on the truck.
The cheese plant processes milk from a number of other dairy goat farms in the area and distributes it to nearby Guadalajara and Mexico City. The two cities have a combined population of 15 million people so the market for goat milk products is substantial.
"The refrigerated bulk tank allows us to focus on raising goats and producing milk," Hernandez said. "Making cheese and selling it was a lot of work."
Hernandez who has been milking Saanens for 20 years, returned to his birth place after living in Mexico City and Chicago. The place where he was born is under the deep waters of the manmade lake known as Presa Ignacio Allende. When Hernandez was a boy, his brothers and sisters played along side the banks of the river that the government dammed up. Now the people who lived along the river live in the village of Agustin Gonzales. The water from Presa Allende is used only for irrigation of the large farms in the valleys below Agustin Gonzales.
Hernandez returned to the area of his birth because he preferred rural life. His life isn't as rural as a farmer in the United States, however. Maria Feliz can walk from their home to the grocery store and back in a short time. Their front yard, which includes an orchard of oranges, grapefruit, limes, apples, cherries, and plums, is actually part of the village.
The Hernandez farm and farmhouse are modest, clean, and well kept, including the goat yards. Although production is not great, the herd of goats provides an adequate middle class living for three people. Juan, Jr. went to high school in the U.S. but, like his father, the younger Hernandez prefers the rural life and working with the goat herd, in Mexico.
In mid-October of 2007 the Hernandez family was milking 50 does and feeding about 30 kids. A large number of the does were going to freshen in November. For the most part, they milk the does through or dry them off for only a couple of weeks before refreshening.
The Hernandez' horseshoe-shaped barn separates the does into three separate pens that are open to the elements on three sides. The center of the barn houses the tractor and allows access to all livestock pens.
The does are separated into a series of three free stall pens that have a roof and a back wall but are otherwise open to the elements. The combined pens make up a horseshoe-shaped barn. The center of the barn houses a Massey Ferguson tractor and also serves as an access point to all the livestock pens. One leg of the horseshoe barn contains the area where Juan, Jr. chops silage for feed. The corn stalks are cut whole from the field and brought in to be hand fed into a small electric chopper. Some of the fields are adjacent to the farmstead. Others are some distance away.
Hernandez does not separate his bucks from the does. Each of the pens includes a group of does and at least one buck. There is also a hospital pen and pens for kids. In October one of those pens had a group of 15 five-month-old doelings. These doelings had a young buck with them.
All milking is done by hand. The milking parlor is in the central area of the horseshoe shaped barn and has easy access to all the pens. The parlor is elevated so milkers can stand up. There are on and off ramps. Milk is hauled in buckets to the milk room where the bulk tank is located.
When the senior Hernandez began milking goats in the mid-1980s the Mexican goat industry had already seen dramatic growth. Between 1970 and 1980 the demand for goat milk increased by 60 percent and an increasing demand for meat caused a 384 percent rise in prices, according to Mexican agricultural statistics.
Since then, the American Dairy Goat Association has worked with Mexican goat producers to improve standards, genetics, and production. In 2005 Sheila Nixon, on behalf of ADGA, was invited to judge the First National Dairy Goat Show in Celaya, Guanajuato. Celaya is just one hour from the Hernandez' farm. According to him, the best, and largest dairy goat herds in the country are near Celaya. The year Sheila Nixon judged, the Best Doe In Show and Best Udder was a three-year-old owned by Rodrigo Conejo of Salamanca, Guanajuato. Salamanca is not far from the Hernandez farm.
By Tim King
"Depending on what time of year it is I can fill the bulk tank in one or two days," Hernandez said. "Then I put the cold milk in my pick-up truck and drive to the cheese plant. It's only a 20-minute drive."
The milk stays cold on the short trip even though there is no refrigeration on the truck.
The cheese plant processes milk from a number of other dairy goat farms in the area and distributes it to nearby Guadalajara and Mexico City. The two cities have a combined population of 15 million people so the market for goat milk products is substantial.
"The refrigerated bulk tank allows us to focus on raising goats and producing milk," Hernandez said. "Making cheese and selling it was a lot of work."
Hernandez who has been milking Saanens for 20 years, returned to his birth place after living in Mexico City and Chicago. The place where he was born is under the deep waters of the manmade lake known as Presa Ignacio Allende. When Hernandez was a boy, his brothers and sisters played along side the banks of the river that the government dammed up. Now the people who lived along the river live in the village of Agustin Gonzales. The water from Presa Allende is used only for irrigation of the large farms in the valleys below Agustin Gonzales.
Hernandez returned to the area of his birth because he preferred rural life. His life isn't as rural as a farmer in the United States, however. Maria Feliz can walk from their home to the grocery store and back in a short time. Their front yard, which includes an orchard of oranges, grapefruit, limes, apples, cherries, and plums, is actually part of the village.
The Hernandez farm and farmhouse are modest, clean, and well kept, including the goat yards. Although production is not great, the herd of goats provides an adequate middle class living for three people. Juan, Jr. went to high school in the U.S. but, like his father, the younger Hernandez prefers the rural life and working with the goat herd, in Mexico.
In mid-October of 2007 the Hernandez family was milking 50 does and feeding about 30 kids. A large number of the does were going to freshen in November. For the most part, they milk the does through or dry them off for only a couple of weeks before refreshening.
The Hernandez' horseshoe-shaped barn separates the does into three separate pens that are open to the elements on three sides. The center of the barn houses the tractor and allows access to all livestock pens.
The does are separated into a series of three free stall pens that have a roof and a back wall but are otherwise open to the elements. The combined pens make up a horseshoe-shaped barn. The center of the barn houses a Massey Ferguson tractor and also serves as an access point to all the livestock pens. One leg of the horseshoe barn contains the area where Juan, Jr. chops silage for feed. The corn stalks are cut whole from the field and brought in to be hand fed into a small electric chopper. Some of the fields are adjacent to the farmstead. Others are some distance away.
Hernandez does not separate his bucks from the does. Each of the pens includes a group of does and at least one buck. There is also a hospital pen and pens for kids. In October one of those pens had a group of 15 five-month-old doelings. These doelings had a young buck with them.
All milking is done by hand. The milking parlor is in the central area of the horseshoe shaped barn and has easy access to all the pens. The parlor is elevated so milkers can stand up. There are on and off ramps. Milk is hauled in buckets to the milk room where the bulk tank is located.
When the senior Hernandez began milking goats in the mid-1980s the Mexican goat industry had already seen dramatic growth. Between 1970 and 1980 the demand for goat milk increased by 60 percent and an increasing demand for meat caused a 384 percent rise in prices, according to Mexican agricultural statistics.
Since then, the American Dairy Goat Association has worked with Mexican goat producers to improve standards, genetics, and production. In 2005 Sheila Nixon, on behalf of ADGA, was invited to judge the First National Dairy Goat Show in Celaya, Guanajuato. Celaya is just one hour from the Hernandez' farm. According to him, the best, and largest dairy goat herds in the country are near Celaya. The year Sheila Nixon judged, the Best Doe In Show and Best Udder was a three-year-old owned by Rodrigo Conejo of Salamanca, Guanajuato. Salamanca is not far from the Hernandez farm.
By Tim King
Why People Drink Goats Milk
Talk to any dairy goat owner and chances are at some point in the conversation they will let slip the well-believed phrase "more people world-wide drink goat milk than any other type of milk." As a dairy goat owner, I am sure that somewhere there are documented facts and statistics to back up this claim. But it does leave one question: Exactly who is drinking goat milk, and why? From my own personal experience of producing, selling, and drinking goat milk for the past 20 years, I can tell you. The people drinking goat milk are friends, neighbors, fellow countrymen, as well as immigrants and third-world inhabitants. Goat milk has been consumed for eons and continues to be the source of relief, even life, for many who would otherwise be unable to absorb proper nutrients from their diets. From my own son, to a woman named Mette Schutte, whose story is documented in the book, Goat Milk Magic, by Dr. Bernard Jensen, the real stories of people living and loving goat milk are many. Here are just a few of those stories. Some names have been changed to protect identity for legal reasons.
Keenan Stultz enjoys spending time with his favorite Nigerian doeling, Wil-O-Wisp. He also loves to drink goat milk.
When my son, Keenan (now age 11), was five years old, he was a robust, chunky little boy, active and full of joy and excitement about going to kindergarten. He was a big eater, loved just about everything placed on his plate, and drank goat milk morning, noon, night and for snacks in between. He loved pre-school, loved to play with his animals on the farm, loved to play with his friends, loved to show off his alphabet skills, and had a heart as big as a star-covered Kansas sky and determination to match it. Imagine our dismay and concern as parents when only a week into school he was complaining of headaches, stomachaches, and crying because he just didn't feel good. It didn't make sense. Was he playing sick just so he wouldn't have to go to school? What was going on?
His teacher said he seemed to be stressed out at school and couldn't concentrate. Maybe he had Attention Deficit Disorder (ADD); maybe we as parents were putting too much pressure on him to succeed at school; maybe he just wasn't trying hard enough. I couldn't believe it. This was my precious son, who just weeks earlier sat on my lap for hours as we read books. He loved to color; he loved learning. I was convinced the teacher was at fault. How could he go from such a happy child to one so miserable in such a short time?
Despite our misgivings, we listened to the teacher. We took him to his regular doctor who recommended putting him on an anti-depressant (at age five), then saw a specialist who evaluated him for ADD and ordered two gastro-intestinal exams. The results were all inconclusive and the treatments they all came up with, unrealistic. They wanted my son to take medication for two different conditions I knew he didn't have, and the side effects of the medications sounded like something out of a horror movie. Meanwhile my happy baby was still miserable with stomachaches, constipation and painful bowel movements. I thought I must have failed as a parent somehow.
One morning, while trying to convince Keenan he could make it through another day at school, I found a notice for special milk break payment in his backpack. My child had been drinking a carton of cow milk everyday at school for milk break for three months.. It never occurred to us that this was a problem; all children took milk breaks. But I suddenly realized my child had never had cow milk, or even cow milk products as part of his regular diet before. He had grown up on a dairy goat farm. I breastfed him until he was a year old, and he drank fresh goat milk from then on. Maybe Keenan was lactose intolerant. We never realized it because he had not been exposed to something he could not digest (cow milk) before. Excited, I phoned the school office to request he not be given any milk at school. To my surprise I was informed my child would have to continue taking milk break at school until I had a doctor's signed statement that he was medically unable to drink it. Great. I had to go back to the doctor who was threatening me with intervention services because I refused to give my child Ritalin and Prozac on his orders. What a strange world we live in, when parents are no longer trusted to know what is best for their children.
My instructions to Keenan that day, take the carton of milk but do not drink it, just quietly drop it into the trash after milk break was over. It took another two months for us to get through the proper steps to officially get my son off the school milk break list, but from the day he quit drinking milk at school, Keenan's stomach-aches, headaches and stress left him. My son was allergic to cow milk and once he was back to drinking his favorite goat milk at home, with just water or juice at school, his world was made right, without all those unnecessary high-powered drugs!
I am so thankful we discovered Keenan's real problem with milk before he was immersed in the doctor prescribed drug treatments that were laid out for him. I'm sure that for some people these types of things are necessary, but for us, goat milk in all it's natural goodness, was indeed a the miracle treatment. As difficult as it was for us to get through Keenan's milk intolerance difficulties, I have goat milk customers who have suffered even more at the hands of a medical community that doesn't understand the properties and importance of goat milk in a baby's diet.
Many years ago, I met an elderly man who came to buy a goat in milk to provide sustenance for his granddaughter. The child had been taken from her mother by the state because she was "starving," but through a bit of luck and answered prayers, the grandparents were able to get temporary custody. Frank (name changed) told me their family had a long history of lactose intolerance, and every generation had lost babies because they could not digest even breast milk. He was certain this baby was failing to thrive because it needed goat milk, but nobody in charge was listening. A year later, Frank called and said the baby was back with her mother and thriving on goat milk.
Skip ahead 15 years. Debbie, one of Frank's daughters, called frantically looking for a goat milk source for her own granddaughter, three weeks old, only weighing five pounds and not growing. Her daughter was losing custody of the child because of care issues, likely because doctors were concerned the child wasn't growing. This was her last hope. The baby was in a Children's Home where she was wasting away. She had one chance to get her and had crossed miles of red tape but was successful. Of course, we added her to the goat milk customer list immediately, and as the weeks went by the baby started growing and thriving. Amazingly, doctors were baffled by the baby's rapid turnaround in the care of her grandmother. The family keeps the fact that the baby is on goat milk sec- ret, fearing the child would go back into the Children's Home where she was starving, because the doctor specifically ordered them not to feed the child goat milk.
Keenan Stultz, Hillsboro, Kansas, shares the magic of goats and goat milk with friends at school whenever he gets a chance. In May he demonstrated how to milk a goat and then shared goat milk samples with his elementary classmates.
Another goat milk customer at our farm related her story as follows. Her infant son had a terrible skin condition and cried all night. Things were just not going well. A pediatrician had them try all kinds of dry formula. Nothing seemed to work, but someone at a health food store turned them on to goat milk. They tried canned goat milk from the store and it seemed to help. Under the pediatrician's recommendation, they looked for fresh goat milk, and now add a vitamin supplement and black strap molasses. The molasses helps keep the baby from getting constipated plus adds some additional nutrients. After two months on goat milk, the baby is happy and healthy, sleeping through the night, and has a beautiful complexion. Problems solved by goat milk.
And as for the story of Metta Schutte, mentioned at the beginning of this article. I read a wonderful book called Goat Milk Magic, by Dr. Bernard Jensen. In it was the story of a young woman who was dying of an intestinal disorder. Surgery to remove major body parts seemed to be her only option until she found Dr. Jensen. She moved to his ranch in California and spent the next 30 years drinking goat milk. She recovered, without surgery or other medical intervention, to lead a wholesome, active life, living almost exclusively on goat milk. Unfortunately, two weeks after she left the ranch to live in the city again, she was killed in a car accident. Goat milk, while a miracle food in itself, cannot protect humans from everything.
There are true stories of goat milk magic from almost any walk of life, and likely from any and every farm that has ever been a home to the wonderful dairy goat. I hope someday that official research will catch up to the facts that those of us who raise, bred, milk and enjoy dairy goats already know. Dairy goats and the milk they produce are wonderful, and it could be said that many lives depend on it. While I haven't been able to document the statement about more people drinking goat milk worldwide than any other type of milk, I think it is safe to say that those who are drinking goat milk are happier and healthier than those who haven't had the opportunity to do so.
By Jennifer Stultz
Friday, 11 July 2008
The Milk Goat
By Clara Hedricks
LECTION OF A GOAT FOR MILK PURPOSES
You’ve decided that you would like to milk goats. Whether you are going to milk one to two goats for your own use, several goats for your FFA/4-H project, or several hundred as a commercial dairy there are a few basic points to take into consideration when selecting a goat for milk purposes.
CONFORMATION
The milk goat should have a strong set of feet and legs. She should be able to move about with ease. Her knees should be clean, no puffiness or swelling. Remember she needs to get to the feeder to eat to produce milk.
The dairy goat should be deep in the heart girth and wide in the barrel. She must have good lung capacity and plenty of room for feed. The ideal milk goat is A-shaped when viewed from the side. In other words she will be narrower from topline to underline in the front end and will become deeper as you move towards the rear end of the animal. She will not be parallel from front to back. If you place your fingers between her ribs you will find them to point backwards with a wide spacing between them. Her ribs should be flat boned as opposed to round boned.
A good milk goat in excellent condition should have loose pliable skin and not be carrying excess fleshing. She should be sharp in the withers with an in curving thigh. If the goat has the above-mentioned features she has the willingness and genetic ability to milk.
Look closely at the udder. If should have a wide area of attachment with one third of the udder extending behind the leg when viewed from the side, one third of the udder behind the leg and one third of the udder in front of the leg. The rear udder attachment should be high and wide with no pockets where the fore udder meets the body. If your doe’s udder has the above-mentioned features then she has the udder capacity to provide milk.
Teat size and placement are important when selecting a milk goat. If you will be hand milking your goat select one with teat size that fits your hand, not too small or too large. If you are machine milking the goat the teat should fit into the inflation. The teat should be placed on the outer edge of the half pointing downward or even slightly inward. The medial suspensory ligament should be strong, providing a halving of the udder. The orifice size is important. If it is too small it will take a long time to milk out and if it is too large your doe may leak milk. Upon milking the doe out her udder should be soft and collapse down. If she has a hard udder after being milked out she may have scar tissue in her udder or have some other health issues. If the doe has just kidded she
may have some udder edema which should be gone within one to two weeks. If this swelling persists there are some other problems.
A management tool that is extremely useful in selecting a quality milk goat is DHI records. Ask the owner of the doe if they milk test and if they do ask to see her records. A good milking doe should be producing at least six to eight pounds of milk on a daily basis. On the DHI test sheet you will be able to find information regarding pounds of milk, butterfat and protein content of the milk.
You may also find information regarding SCC 9somatic cell count), high count can be an indicator of some mastitis issues especially subclinical. Be sure the udder is even as this can also be an indicating factor of some problems that have occurred or are occurring.
HOW TO MILK A DAIRY GOAT
Sanitation is the key. You want to minimize any opportunity for bacteria to enter the end of the teat canal.
The use of latex or nitrile gloves is recommended. The surface of the milker glove is non-porous and is sanitary. It is impossible to get your hands as clean and sanitary. If you choose not to use gloves, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly and keep them clean through the milking process.
Pre-dip the teats. There are a number of different products on the market sold as pre-dips. Read the label. The product should be able to kill bacteria on the teats and still be mild enough as not to dry out the skin on the teats. The product should have lanolin in it.
Strip two to three streams of milk from each teat into a strip cup. You are looking for any abnormalities in the milk. (Please refer to the section on abnormal milk.)
Dry the teats with single use towels. Do not use the same towel on the next animal. Remember your goal is to minimize the spread of bacterial from one animal to the next.
The pre-dip needs to stay on the teat for 30 seconds so it can kill any bacterial on the teat. If the teat does not come clean the first time repeat the process until the teat does come clean.
The process of milking should begin about one minute after preparation of the doe as the milk let down hormone is actively working and the doe is ready to be milked. The longer one waits to milk after this time the less ready the doe will be to let down her milk. Now either hand milk the doe or attach the machine to her.
Upon completion post-dip your doe’s teats. The pre-dip and post-dip should be compatible. For example if you use iodine based pre-dip use iodine based post-dip.
The purpose of the post-dip is to kill any bacteria around the teat end after milking until the orifice closes. Feed your doe right after you’re done milking her so that she continues to stand to minimize the chance of her lying down and getting bacteria into the teat end.
In summary the proper procedure to milking a goat is:
1. Pre-dip
2. Strip
3. Dry with a single use towel.
4. Milk
5. Post-dip
Dipping the teat end is typically better than spraying the teat end as the dipping ensures full coverage of the teat end whereas with spraying it is hard to ensure adequate coverage of the teat end.
DAIRY CLIPPING
Prior to milking your doe. A dairy clip is recommended to reduce debris and hair from getting into your milk. To dairy clip your doe, clip the belly, udder, and rear legs. Your goal is to remove long hair that may collect debris. The quality of your milk is improved by reducing any debris that can get into it.
ABNORMAL MILK
Work with your veterinarian to develop a management plan and procedure as to how to handle potential sick does. There are different strains of bacteria that cause abnormal milk and different products that work best on a given strain of bacteria. Take a sample of the abnormal milk to your veterinarian to have it tested so you know what types of bacteria you are dealing with.
Upon the completion of milking all of your milking equipment must be washed and sanitized. This is a must for keeping your does healthy and for providing quality milk.
MACHINE MILKING
There are a few key points to remember when machine milking. The teat should fit into the inflation. The inflation should not be conti9nually falling off or slipping. A slipping inflation will cause teat irritation followed by udder infections. Vacuum pressure should be at 11.5 to 14 psi depending on your type of system. With a pulsation of 60 – 90 beats per minute. For specific information regarding the set up of a milking system, best milking practices or other milking related questions refer to
www.dairpc.com. The Dairy Practices Council has a number of excellent management booklets out. Their information is based on research.
You will need to find an inflation that works best for your. There are a number of styles of inflations and materials that inflations are made from. Do not over milk with a machine, as you will cause teat ends to become irritated and cause additional problems.
PROPER HANDLING OF MILK
To maintain a quality product the milk should be immediately strained and cooled to 38 – 40 degrees F.
If the milk is to be fed to kids it should be pasteurized. Heat the milk to 165 degrees F for 15 seconds. Colostrum should be heat-treated to 130 degrees F for one hour. Heat treatment of the milk kills many harmful microorganisms. Diseases as CAE and Johnes can be passed on to the offspring through the doe’s milk.
Suggested Websites Compiled
http://www.ics.uci.edu/~pazzani/4H/GoatsHome.html
http://www.clover.okstate.edu/fourh/newpage/projects/4h424.pdf
http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/4H/goats.html
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_4H054
http://www.sheepandgoat.com/manage.html
http://nationalsaanenbreeders.com/links1.html
www.imagecyte.com/goats.html
www.saanendoah.com/goatss.html
www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles.htm
www.goatworld.com
www.goatwisdom.com
WHY PACK GOATS FOR 4-H/FFA
By Beth Adams
Pack Goats are a wonderful addition to any County Fair. A Pack Goat Competition will delight not only 4-H/FFA Participants but also the audience. Don’t be surprised if you end up with more spectators after the first five minutes of the competition than the Beef Show. Imagine goats with packs maneuvering over, under, and through obstacles. It truly is amazing to watch. Please refer to sample Pack Goat Show Rules Sheet and Score Sheets for ideas.
Dairy Goat wethers are the pack goats of choice and the average 4-H or FFA members will be overjoyed in the fact that they have obtained pets that will improve in showmanship and be able to attend the fair year after year. This is a wonderful program especially since the advent of the Boer Goat and meat breed crosses have just about forced the dairy breeds, except the Nubian, out of the market goat 4-H/FFA projects. It has taken only three years for this program to grow in Clermont County, Ohio, to 95 pack goats.
As a Youth Leader it is an added benefit to hold one to two pack goat outings during the year. This is a true social event for both the youth and the goats. Arrange a meeting place and time. This can be a state park, national park, any bridle trail, etc. Have the participants pack their lunches and a bottle of water for the goats available in the packs the goats will be carrying. This activity can be as long as six hours or as short as three hours.
Packs can be either purchased from a pack goat equipment supplier or a dog pack will suffice. Many pack goat enthusiasts make their own packs.
Below is some general information regarding selection, health, training, equipment, etc., written by Clay and Charlotte Zimmerman of High Uinta Pack Goats.
PICKING A PROSPECT We don't believe the "perfect packgoat" exists. But, there are attributes that you need to be aware of when picking your prospect. If you are a light, weekend packer you will be able to use a goat with some flaws, but the harder you intend to work your goat, the more of the following items you will have to take into consideration.
CONFORMATION
Prospects should be: CAE and CL free-(goat viruses-CAE looks like arthritis, & CL is an abscess forming disease) Minimum 34" at the withers-(our Oberhaslis are not this big, but if you want a large load this is the minimum size.) Minimum 200 pounds-(same comment as height, the smaller the mass the less weight they
can carry) Leg length proportionate to body (no dachshund looking conformation) Flat back from withers to loin-(helps carry weight evenly) Withers and croup both same distance from the ground-not going uphill or down-(keeps pack from sliding) Cannon bone 1/3 length of upper leg-(longer stride) Good bone size in legs and feet Wide across hip and shoulders-(good weight bearing surface) Legs track reasonably straight when watched from the front-(elbows should not "wing" out - come away from the body) Slightly hockey-good angles to hocks when viewed from the side and back give better traction and stay sounder than posty (very straight) legs. Body type - (should look muscular in appearance -not a dairy goat type- with thigh/gaskin muscles well defined; shoulders and neck should also show good muscle tone.)
These, of course describe the "perfect" goat, but the harder you plan to work, the more they need to have good proportion and strong bone and feet. (Here we have to say that one of our 'best' packers most definitely does not fit this profile. He is bow-legged, pigeon toed and his hoofs roll as he steps. But it hasn't proven a problem to him as far as we can tell. And we work our boys hard.)
To de-horn or not to de-horn, that is the question. There is a lot of controversy over this. Horns work as a cooling system in goats. They are also a major liability in herd management. The arguments pro and con are many. Whichever you decide on, all your animals should be the same. Most breeders automatically dehorn new kids. The buyer usually must ask for this not to be done if they want horns.
MENTAL ATTRIBUTES A goat can have all the great conformation in the world, but if he's not a "gung-ho" goat mentally, he's worthless as a packer. Good pack goats like to work and spend time with people. It's obvious when they're very small. In fact, if they follow into the training mud puddle for their bottle, they are likely to be good packers. Our experience is that "attitude" plays an extremely important part in a packgoat. We recommend choosing a goat that is friendly, curious, doesn't mind being touched places, and one that has an alertness and brightness to its character.
Some goats are lazy. Nubians particularly have a reputation for this, but this doesn't mean that all are. And Nubian crosses can give you size while maintaining the more work oriented traits of the smaller breeds.
A goat from a reputable packgoat breeder will have been bred to select for gung-ho goat qualities. Goats should show that they are well-socialized and not exhibit fear or aggressiveness toward people. By the time they are weaned, they should not be butting or jumping up on people. It's cute in kids but not in full grown spoiled monsters. Your goat should be willing to respect you, just like any other working animal.
How we do things. Training: Training begins the day a goat is born. For a good packing goat, hand raising it a must. This bonds the goat to humans; makes you a vital part of its herd. The most important training rule to remember is "love and respect your goat". Cute cuddly "kids" grow to be big strong "goats." By nature goats butt and ram each other and will do it to humans unless this is trained out of them at a very young age. The best way is by the "No horns, no heads" rule. As the owner, and dominant of the herd, humans must never "invite" a challenge. This means you do not grab the goat by its horns and tussle. And part two; if the goat lowers it head to butt, gently push its head away on the side of its face. The first year this will be the most used training technique. But as a fully grown
adult packer, that same goat is safe to turn your back on, will follow, anywhere, and wants very much to make you, the human dominant(s) happy. Collar and leash training for your goat must also start very early. They love to walk; they love to be with their herd. They do not like to be pulled on a leash, but many areas require leads on all pack animals, so start them, even before they are weaned. Never yell or hit the goat, this makes them resentful. But like a well trained dog, coax and reward the goat. That first year is the best time to get them to cross water. Most goats don't do this naturally and will find many ingenious ways NOT to get wet. But if fording a river is necessary on a hike, your goat must be able to do it. We actually walk stream beds, so the goats at some point must go through water to follow. Often they will wait until we are out of sight before "plunging in" but all will come before being left behind.
What Do I Need to Consider if I Decide to Purchase a Goat? Land – 100 sq. ft. per goat. Fencing – 5-ft. high field/horse fencing. (With horned goats 4" squares recommend) Shelter – Covered, with at least three sides, dry and blocks main wind flow. Food - hay: alfalfa/grass mix and vitamins. Mineral salt lick. And protein treats Water – fresh daily. Health Care – yearly checkups, worming, yearly vaccinations, and hooves trimmed every 3 to 6 weeks. Companionship – consider 2 goats to keep each other company. Care Cost – about $15 to $20 per month. Exercise – a hike a week or walks during the week. An exercised goat is a healthy goat. Training Time – plan to spend a few minutes each day with the goat to work on commands as well as for bonding
Statistics how much can one carry? Goats can easily carry 1/4 of their total body weight. Fully conditioned packers can reach up to 1/3. A large fully grown wether can easily carry 40 to 60 pounds of gear. That's a lot of stuff, and if you need more you can just add another goat! When can they pack? Too young? Goats can start training with a soft pack (1lb. max weight) at 8 or 9 months. Small loads by (5lbs-10lbs) between 1 1/2 and 2; once a full sized saddle will fit. Between 2 and 4 years, they can carry full (1/4) loads. DO NOT over pack during these two years, as they are still growing! To old? Healthy, well cared for and conditioned goats can pack for many years. We have heard of some that are 15 years plus
Get to know your veterinarian, especially first time owners of pack goats. They will fast become your best friend and advice counselors. Second best source is the Packgoat list online. This is a free list and very informative as goat packers help each other. (See link page to subscribe to the All About Pack goats list)
Goats are easy to care for. These are the signs of a healthy goat. Eyes clear and bright. Tearing or cloudy eyes probably mean a pinkeye infection. Coat smooth and shiny. A dull coat could indicate parasites. Fluffed up coat means the goat is not feeling well. Appetite good. Attitude alert. Hunched back and droopy tail mean something is wrong. Goat Statistics Body Temperature: 102.5° F-104° F Pulse/heart rate: 60 to 80 beats per minute Respiration rate: 15 to 30 breaths per minute
Making the Wether: Banding vs. Surgical Castration We've as yet, have not physically done this ourselves. By the time we get the goats, the
breeders have already done this for us. So the following suggestion and comments are from a veterinarian. Pack goats should be Castrated at 4-6 months, as there is less scarring to result in stricture of the urethra in wethers. Banding earlier as is common, leaves scarring in this area. Castration can be done with Ketamine, a quick acting anesthetic, with the kid up and active again very quickly. Also early castration at about 3 months keeps the growth plates open longer, resulting in a little leggier goat. Because of wethers tendency for urinary tract problems later in life, banding is not the best choice for a packgoat prospect.
Worming: Giving advice on frequency of worming is not easy, as too many factors are involved. The area you live in and the immediate environment your goats live in. Lots of animals in a small space may require worming every 2 months. While few animals on acres of land, may never need worming at all. The best way to know your needs is to do (or have done) a fecal exam before you worm unless your animals are symptomatic. And do another 2 weeks later to see if the drug you used was effective. The tests don't cost much, or with training can be done by the owner. Goats metabolize worm medications faster than other species. That is why they need a higher dose of most worm medications than horse, cattle and even sheep. Another good idea is to rotate the brand of wormer, so that you are not using the same on every two months (if frequent worming is indicated in your area) This is advised by many caprine trained Veterinarians. Routine worming when unnecessary only leads to drug resistant parasites, animals with little or no natural resistance and spending lots of money. Your local veterinarian or breeder can provide the best advice about general conditions that lead to or away from worming in your immediate area.
Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis Syndrome: Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis Syndrome (CAE) is a viral disease. In young kids symptoms include a weakness in the rear legs, with no fever, or loss of appetite. However, the unused legs lose muscle strength and structure and the infected kids eventually die. In older goats, the same disease is seen as swollen joints, particularly the knees. The disease develops slowly, and after 2 or more years, the animal has difficulty using its legs properly. Infected goats have no fever, remain alert, and eat well. However, they do not recover from the arthritis. An inexpensive blood test can be used to diagnose CAE. The disease is spread from older infected goats to kids, perhaps by contact or through the milk from an infected doe to her kid. There are no corrective procedures or treatments. Isolating kids at birth and raising them on pasteurized goat milk is done to prevent the spread. It's a good idea to make sure a goat is CAE free before purchasing. However, the blood test only checks for antibodies, and it's possible that an animal is infected and not (yet) producing antibodies.
Pack Goat Nutrition Pack goats should get 1-½% to 2% of their body weight in feed daily. This means that a 100 pound pack goat needs about 2 pounds of feed a day. A working pack goat needs about 2% to 3% of their body weight in feed per day. If a goat seems to be a little thin, add ½% to 1% more feed each day. When working, a pack goat needs extra fats and proteins which help their muscles work well. Fats and proteins come from the grain mixture. The grain mixture should consist of vitamins and minerals along with oil for fat - corn, oats and/or barley for protein. Most packers agree that wethered pack goats should not be fed a continuous grain diet, nor should they be fed a continuous diet of alfalfa. Grass hay tends to be the best. Alfalfa and grain should not be overfed to pack goats. Wethered goats are prone to urinary calculi (caused by too much phosphorus and not enough calcium). Urinary calculi in a pack goat can be life threatening. To avoid problems with urinary calculi, the grain mixture should be at least 2 or 3 parts calcium to 1 part phosphorus. A goat should have plenty of fresh water daily. In areas that are deficient in the mineral selenium be sure
that goats get a mineral mixture that contains selenium (a horse or cattle salt mixture or block works well). In any area a mineral salt lick is preferred, made for that area's deficiencies.
Which Breed is Best? It's anyone's guess and a lot of personal preferences.
What Kind of Goats? There are six breeds of Dairy Goats that are registered with the American Dairy Goat Association that are most commonly used for pack goats. A pack goat can be any breed or cross-breed of goat. All the breeds have different personalities and different physical characteristics. If you are interested you should check out as many breeds as possible before making your purchase. A good pack goat needs to have long, good, strong legs. Personality is a major component of a good pack goat. A good temperament makes up for a lot of size faults with a pack goat. [Taz is one of our smallest goats, But he has endurance and "heart" to spare on long treks. Like the energizer rabbit.] Most pack goats are wethers (neutered males) because they tend to get larger than the females and do not have the odor and behavior problems of bucks.
Alpines The Alpine is a breed of goat that originated in the Alps. The goats of Alpine type that were brought to the United States from France where they had been selected for much greater uniformity, size, and production than was true of the goats that were taken from Switzerland to France. Size and production rather than color pattern have been stressed in the development of the Alpine. No distinct color has been established, and it may range from pure white through shades of fawn, gray, brown, black, red, bluff, piebald, or various shadings or combinations of these colors. Both sexes are generally short haired, but bucks usually have a roach of long hair along the spine. The beard of males is also quite pronounced. The ears in the Alpine should be of medium size, fine textured, and preferably erect. Alpines are attractive animals with white and/or black facial stripes. Color is of little significance to the packer, but to the breeder it is important because the prettier ones tend to sale first. [Unless, like us, you pre-order from a breeder that only breeds what are sold and future breeding stock We agree to accept one of the male kids, sight unseen.] Alpines are fine boned and a little smaller than Saanens or Toggenburgs, but the quest for the monster Alpine to rival or surpass these bigger breeds is firmly under way among reputable pack goat breeders. Mature females should stand not less than 30 inches at the withers and should weigh not less than 135 pounds. Males should stand from 34 to 40 inches at the withers and should weigh not less than 170 pounds. Alpine horns are distinctive, blacker and more tubular, taller scimitar shape. (More antelope looking.) Alpines are hardy, adaptable animals that thrive in any climate while maintaining good health. They are very agile on rocks and very friendly but tend to show increasing independence after two years of age. Weak pasterns occur in some bloodlines, but seldom affect an exercised wether. They train easily and are very in tune to the people with whom they work. Watching for slight movements or gestures, even making eye contact with humans – traits not as common in other breeds. Docile and friendly, but with instincts running at high gear. Only Toggs are as (or more) alert on the trail. Don't ever offend your Alpine wither – he can be sensitive and high-strung after about age three. Alpines tend to be affectionate with people (when it's their idea) and detest being left behind. An older, experienced Alpine can be surprisingly trail wise, remembering the exact lay of a trail it's been on before, even when the trail is covered by a foot of snow, or remembering significant details about a route off the trail. (Even with years between times on the trail.) Any experienced goat can develop this sense, but Alpines seem to be the most adept at it.
LaManchas This Spanish breed originated in Oregon from short eared goats of a type found not only in
LaMancha, but throughout Spain. It has excellent dairy temperament and is an all around sturdy animal that can withstand a great deal of hardship. The LaMancha is (like the Obers) one of the smaller breed used for pack goats. The LaMancha face is straight with the ears (or lack of) being the distinctive breed characteristic. The external, visible part of the ear is like a little tuft with no cartilage. LaManchas come in about any color you like. The hair is short, fine and glossy. Horns are of a lighter brown or black, and smallish, tending to curl back more little the Big-Horn sheep as the animal ages. LaManchas are one of the most consistently lovable and agreeable of all the breeds for a pack goat. Bonding with humans is exceptional. LaManchas will follow you anywhere and therefore are a little easier to train. (In fact the term – underfoot – fits them well.) They are possibly the most intelligent breed. You have to experience the LaMancha to fully appreciate them. [We have loved our Munchies and Munchy mixes. "In Trouble" is another term that they wear well. These boys are the first to cross the ‘camp line' and enter tents, check out the fire, investigate the gear and so on. The LaMancha breeder we acquired Star from told us a good axiom: You will either have to love them, or you will hate them; Munchy's do not allow a middle ground.]
Nubians (correct Registry Name: Anglo Nubian) Nubians were developed in England by crossing British goats with bucks of African and Indian origin. The Anglo Nubian is an all-purpose goat, useful for meat, milk and hides production. It is not a heavy milk producer but has a high average butter fat content. As it is the best suited of the dairy goat breeds to hot conditions, the Anglo Nubian has been used in grading-up programs in many tropical countries to increase the milk and meat production of local breeds. The Nubian is a relatively large, proud, and graceful dairy goat. A mature doe should stand at least 30 inches at the withers and weigh 135 pounds or over, while the males should stand at least 35 inches at the withers and weigh at least 175 pounds. The Nubian goat is named for Nubia, in northeastern Africa. The originally goats imported from Africa, Arabia and India were long legged, hardy goats that had some characteristics desired by goat breeders in England. English breeders crossed these imported bucks on the common short haired does of England prior to 1895 to develop the Anglo-Nubian goat. In the United States the breed is usually spoken of as the Nubian. The Nubian is regarded as an "aristocratic" appearing goat and has very long, pendulous ears that hang close to the head. The Nubian carries a decidedly Roman nose and is always short haired. Horns are thick, and tend to be flatter off the base then the other breed used for packing. Nubian's can come in about any color, solid or patterned, but black, red or tan are the most common colors, any of which may be carried on combination with white. Usually there is shorter hair on the Nubian males, particularly along the back and on the thigh, than is commonly found on the Swiss breeds. The head is the distinctive breed characteristic, with the facial profile between the eyes and the muzzle being strongly convex. The ears are long (extending at least one inch beyond the muzzle when held flat along the face), wide and pendulous. They lie close to the head at the temple and flare slightly out and well forward at the rounded tip, forming a "bell" shape. The ears are not thick, with the cartilage well defined. The hair is short, fine and glossy. Nubians are famous for the duration of milk production and the high butterfat content of their milk. They are also famous in the pack goat community for lying down in the trail when you want them to go. They tend to be the most stubborn of the goat breeds, and are noisy, making a distinctive sound. Even Nubian kids sound like they are complaining. Their size and sturdiness is desirable, but there disposition makes them nearly useless as a pack goat. [That said, all of our Nubian crossbreeds have been excellent packers. But you get "airplane ears" with crossbreeds -- the ears extend from head two or three inches then fall another two to four inches depending on the cross. These outward extending, floppy ears, tend to lend an "I can fly" look to the goat.]
Oberhaslis The Oberhasli is a Swiss dairy goat. This breed is of medium size, vigorous and alert in appearance. Its color is chamois. Does may be black but chamois is preferred. Chamois is
described as: Bay - ranging from light to a deep red bay with the later most desirable. Markings are to be: two black stripes down the face from above each eye to a black muzzle; forehead nearly all black, black stripes from the base of each ear coming to a point just back of the poll and continuing along the neck and back as a dorsal stripe to the tail; a black belly and udder; black legs below the knees and hocks; ears black inside and bay outside; bucks often have more black on the head than does, black whiskers, and black hair along the shoulders and lower chest with a mantle of black along the back. The face is straight. They have erect ears and are a medium small breed. Horns are tan with an easy scimitar curve, but more round. Oberhaslis are one of the smallest breeds used as a pack goat. But they are used for a dairy goat ‘fault' that is very common to this breed. It's called "hockiness," a tendency for the hocks of the hind legs to be turned inward. This makes a goat more agile on rocks, but obviously leaves less room for a large, pendulous udder. A hocky goat can bound up the side of a near vertical cliff. As far as the serious goat packer is concerned, the hocky tendency in the Oberhasli is a fortunate throwback to the natural form of the wild goat. Many Obers seem to be aquaphilic – they like water. [We have not seen it to the point of LIKING, but our Obers did not require water training, they simply followed us through.] This can be a definite advantage since most goats have to be trained to cross streams due to their natural fear of water. Obers have a pleasant, mellow, easygoing personality. Some breeders are working to increase the size on this breed for a better packgoat.
Saanens (pronounced: saw-nen) The Saanen dairy goat originated in Switzerland, in the Saanen Valley. Saanens are medium to large in size, weighing approximately 145 lbs/65kg, with rugged bone and plenty of vigor. Saanens are white or light cream in color, with white preferred. The hair should be short and fine, although a fringe over the spine and thighs is often present. Ears should be erect and alertly carried, preferably pointing forward. The face should be straight or dished. The breed is sensitive to excessive sunlight and performs best in cooler conditions. The provision of shade is essential and tan skin is preferable. They usually have a large udder capacity and are popular with dairies due to the quantity of milk they produce. Saanens are often big boned and sturdy. Horns are large at the base, long, tan in color, and a flattened scimitar shaped, and deeply ringed. This breed's disposition for packing is perfect – super- mellow and quiet, virtually silent on the trail and in camp. These animals are impressive, often packing up to 85 pounds in easy terrain and 60 pound in steep, rocky terrain. the lovable personality is a strong plus, Saanens are most serviceable in alpine elevation and at cooler temperatures. Their light color and pink skin is linked to a tendency to overheat in hot weather, and this holds true for Saanens that have been crossbred with other breeds. Also, some bloodlines tend to be prone to weak pasterns. Generally, this should not be cause for concern if the goats come from a genuine Packgoat breeder.
Toggenburgs The Toggenburg is a Swiss dairy goat from Toggenburg Valley of Switzerland at Obertoggenburg. They are also credited as being the oldest known dairy goat breed. This breed is medium size, sturdy, vigorous, and alert in appearance. Slightly smaller than the other Alpine breeds, the does weight at least 120lb/55kg. The hair is short or medium in length, soft, fine, and lying flat. Its color is solid varying from light fawn to dark chocolate with no preference for any shade. Distinct white markings are as follows: white ears with dark spot in middle; two white stripes down the face from above each eye to the muzzle; hind legs white from hocks to hooves; forelegs white from knees downward with a dark lien (band) below knee acceptable; a white triangle on either side of the tail; white spot may be present at root of wattles or in that area if no wattles are present. Varying degrees of cream markings instead of pure white acceptable, but not desirable. The ears are erect and carried forward. Facial lines may be dished or straight, never roman. Horns are large at the base, long, tan in color, scimitar shaped, and deeply ringed. Generally, Toggs have strong legs and strong pasterns, but beware of short legged strains (more common in the western states.) Wethers should be at least 34 inches high at the shoulder when
four years of age. Toggs are less mellow and independent the other breeds, especially as they get older. Along with these traits comes an advantageous wariness in the woods. This breed makes for an excellent watch goat which is not noisy but will stare in an alarm posture. Furthermore a goat's night vision is remarkably acute. A small tinkle bell on a Togg around camp at night will keep you aware of intruders -animal or human- beyond your own senses. Never lose your temper with or abuse a working Togg, either in the training phase or when the goat is an adult. These are very sensitive creatures that enjoy their independence. They are loyal, but from a distance. Typical behavior is to avoid being saddled, be a model packer until camp is made, then go off quickly and stare back at the human. This is merely a Togg's way of stating his independence. Be accepting. There are worth the patience. Toggenburgs perform best in cooler conditions and have great endurance.
LECTION OF A GOAT FOR MILK PURPOSES
You’ve decided that you would like to milk goats. Whether you are going to milk one to two goats for your own use, several goats for your FFA/4-H project, or several hundred as a commercial dairy there are a few basic points to take into consideration when selecting a goat for milk purposes.
CONFORMATION
The milk goat should have a strong set of feet and legs. She should be able to move about with ease. Her knees should be clean, no puffiness or swelling. Remember she needs to get to the feeder to eat to produce milk.
The dairy goat should be deep in the heart girth and wide in the barrel. She must have good lung capacity and plenty of room for feed. The ideal milk goat is A-shaped when viewed from the side. In other words she will be narrower from topline to underline in the front end and will become deeper as you move towards the rear end of the animal. She will not be parallel from front to back. If you place your fingers between her ribs you will find them to point backwards with a wide spacing between them. Her ribs should be flat boned as opposed to round boned.
A good milk goat in excellent condition should have loose pliable skin and not be carrying excess fleshing. She should be sharp in the withers with an in curving thigh. If the goat has the above-mentioned features she has the willingness and genetic ability to milk.
Look closely at the udder. If should have a wide area of attachment with one third of the udder extending behind the leg when viewed from the side, one third of the udder behind the leg and one third of the udder in front of the leg. The rear udder attachment should be high and wide with no pockets where the fore udder meets the body. If your doe’s udder has the above-mentioned features then she has the udder capacity to provide milk.
Teat size and placement are important when selecting a milk goat. If you will be hand milking your goat select one with teat size that fits your hand, not too small or too large. If you are machine milking the goat the teat should fit into the inflation. The teat should be placed on the outer edge of the half pointing downward or even slightly inward. The medial suspensory ligament should be strong, providing a halving of the udder. The orifice size is important. If it is too small it will take a long time to milk out and if it is too large your doe may leak milk. Upon milking the doe out her udder should be soft and collapse down. If she has a hard udder after being milked out she may have scar tissue in her udder or have some other health issues. If the doe has just kidded she
may have some udder edema which should be gone within one to two weeks. If this swelling persists there are some other problems.
A management tool that is extremely useful in selecting a quality milk goat is DHI records. Ask the owner of the doe if they milk test and if they do ask to see her records. A good milking doe should be producing at least six to eight pounds of milk on a daily basis. On the DHI test sheet you will be able to find information regarding pounds of milk, butterfat and protein content of the milk.
You may also find information regarding SCC 9somatic cell count), high count can be an indicator of some mastitis issues especially subclinical. Be sure the udder is even as this can also be an indicating factor of some problems that have occurred or are occurring.
HOW TO MILK A DAIRY GOAT
Sanitation is the key. You want to minimize any opportunity for bacteria to enter the end of the teat canal.
The use of latex or nitrile gloves is recommended. The surface of the milker glove is non-porous and is sanitary. It is impossible to get your hands as clean and sanitary. If you choose not to use gloves, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly and keep them clean through the milking process.
Pre-dip the teats. There are a number of different products on the market sold as pre-dips. Read the label. The product should be able to kill bacteria on the teats and still be mild enough as not to dry out the skin on the teats. The product should have lanolin in it.
Strip two to three streams of milk from each teat into a strip cup. You are looking for any abnormalities in the milk. (Please refer to the section on abnormal milk.)
Dry the teats with single use towels. Do not use the same towel on the next animal. Remember your goal is to minimize the spread of bacterial from one animal to the next.
The pre-dip needs to stay on the teat for 30 seconds so it can kill any bacterial on the teat. If the teat does not come clean the first time repeat the process until the teat does come clean.
The process of milking should begin about one minute after preparation of the doe as the milk let down hormone is actively working and the doe is ready to be milked. The longer one waits to milk after this time the less ready the doe will be to let down her milk. Now either hand milk the doe or attach the machine to her.
Upon completion post-dip your doe’s teats. The pre-dip and post-dip should be compatible. For example if you use iodine based pre-dip use iodine based post-dip.
The purpose of the post-dip is to kill any bacteria around the teat end after milking until the orifice closes. Feed your doe right after you’re done milking her so that she continues to stand to minimize the chance of her lying down and getting bacteria into the teat end.
In summary the proper procedure to milking a goat is:
1. Pre-dip
2. Strip
3. Dry with a single use towel.
4. Milk
5. Post-dip
Dipping the teat end is typically better than spraying the teat end as the dipping ensures full coverage of the teat end whereas with spraying it is hard to ensure adequate coverage of the teat end.
DAIRY CLIPPING
Prior to milking your doe. A dairy clip is recommended to reduce debris and hair from getting into your milk. To dairy clip your doe, clip the belly, udder, and rear legs. Your goal is to remove long hair that may collect debris. The quality of your milk is improved by reducing any debris that can get into it.
ABNORMAL MILK
Work with your veterinarian to develop a management plan and procedure as to how to handle potential sick does. There are different strains of bacteria that cause abnormal milk and different products that work best on a given strain of bacteria. Take a sample of the abnormal milk to your veterinarian to have it tested so you know what types of bacteria you are dealing with.
Upon the completion of milking all of your milking equipment must be washed and sanitized. This is a must for keeping your does healthy and for providing quality milk.
MACHINE MILKING
There are a few key points to remember when machine milking. The teat should fit into the inflation. The inflation should not be conti9nually falling off or slipping. A slipping inflation will cause teat irritation followed by udder infections. Vacuum pressure should be at 11.5 to 14 psi depending on your type of system. With a pulsation of 60 – 90 beats per minute. For specific information regarding the set up of a milking system, best milking practices or other milking related questions refer to
www.dairpc.com. The Dairy Practices Council has a number of excellent management booklets out. Their information is based on research.
You will need to find an inflation that works best for your. There are a number of styles of inflations and materials that inflations are made from. Do not over milk with a machine, as you will cause teat ends to become irritated and cause additional problems.
PROPER HANDLING OF MILK
To maintain a quality product the milk should be immediately strained and cooled to 38 – 40 degrees F.
If the milk is to be fed to kids it should be pasteurized. Heat the milk to 165 degrees F for 15 seconds. Colostrum should be heat-treated to 130 degrees F for one hour. Heat treatment of the milk kills many harmful microorganisms. Diseases as CAE and Johnes can be passed on to the offspring through the doe’s milk.
Suggested Websites Compiled
http://www.ics.uci.edu/~pazzani/4H/GoatsHome.html
http://www.clover.okstate.edu/fourh/newpage/projects/4h424.pdf
http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/4H/goats.html
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_4H054
http://www.sheepandgoat.com/manage.html
http://nationalsaanenbreeders.com/links1.html
www.imagecyte.com/goats.html
www.saanendoah.com/goatss.html
www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles.htm
www.goatworld.com
www.goatwisdom.com
WHY PACK GOATS FOR 4-H/FFA
By Beth Adams
Pack Goats are a wonderful addition to any County Fair. A Pack Goat Competition will delight not only 4-H/FFA Participants but also the audience. Don’t be surprised if you end up with more spectators after the first five minutes of the competition than the Beef Show. Imagine goats with packs maneuvering over, under, and through obstacles. It truly is amazing to watch. Please refer to sample Pack Goat Show Rules Sheet and Score Sheets for ideas.
Dairy Goat wethers are the pack goats of choice and the average 4-H or FFA members will be overjoyed in the fact that they have obtained pets that will improve in showmanship and be able to attend the fair year after year. This is a wonderful program especially since the advent of the Boer Goat and meat breed crosses have just about forced the dairy breeds, except the Nubian, out of the market goat 4-H/FFA projects. It has taken only three years for this program to grow in Clermont County, Ohio, to 95 pack goats.
As a Youth Leader it is an added benefit to hold one to two pack goat outings during the year. This is a true social event for both the youth and the goats. Arrange a meeting place and time. This can be a state park, national park, any bridle trail, etc. Have the participants pack their lunches and a bottle of water for the goats available in the packs the goats will be carrying. This activity can be as long as six hours or as short as three hours.
Packs can be either purchased from a pack goat equipment supplier or a dog pack will suffice. Many pack goat enthusiasts make their own packs.
Below is some general information regarding selection, health, training, equipment, etc., written by Clay and Charlotte Zimmerman of High Uinta Pack Goats.
PICKING A PROSPECT We don't believe the "perfect packgoat" exists. But, there are attributes that you need to be aware of when picking your prospect. If you are a light, weekend packer you will be able to use a goat with some flaws, but the harder you intend to work your goat, the more of the following items you will have to take into consideration.
CONFORMATION
Prospects should be: CAE and CL free-(goat viruses-CAE looks like arthritis, & CL is an abscess forming disease) Minimum 34" at the withers-(our Oberhaslis are not this big, but if you want a large load this is the minimum size.) Minimum 200 pounds-(same comment as height, the smaller the mass the less weight they
can carry) Leg length proportionate to body (no dachshund looking conformation) Flat back from withers to loin-(helps carry weight evenly) Withers and croup both same distance from the ground-not going uphill or down-(keeps pack from sliding) Cannon bone 1/3 length of upper leg-(longer stride) Good bone size in legs and feet Wide across hip and shoulders-(good weight bearing surface) Legs track reasonably straight when watched from the front-(elbows should not "wing" out - come away from the body) Slightly hockey-good angles to hocks when viewed from the side and back give better traction and stay sounder than posty (very straight) legs. Body type - (should look muscular in appearance -not a dairy goat type- with thigh/gaskin muscles well defined; shoulders and neck should also show good muscle tone.)
These, of course describe the "perfect" goat, but the harder you plan to work, the more they need to have good proportion and strong bone and feet. (Here we have to say that one of our 'best' packers most definitely does not fit this profile. He is bow-legged, pigeon toed and his hoofs roll as he steps. But it hasn't proven a problem to him as far as we can tell. And we work our boys hard.)
To de-horn or not to de-horn, that is the question. There is a lot of controversy over this. Horns work as a cooling system in goats. They are also a major liability in herd management. The arguments pro and con are many. Whichever you decide on, all your animals should be the same. Most breeders automatically dehorn new kids. The buyer usually must ask for this not to be done if they want horns.
MENTAL ATTRIBUTES A goat can have all the great conformation in the world, but if he's not a "gung-ho" goat mentally, he's worthless as a packer. Good pack goats like to work and spend time with people. It's obvious when they're very small. In fact, if they follow into the training mud puddle for their bottle, they are likely to be good packers. Our experience is that "attitude" plays an extremely important part in a packgoat. We recommend choosing a goat that is friendly, curious, doesn't mind being touched places, and one that has an alertness and brightness to its character.
Some goats are lazy. Nubians particularly have a reputation for this, but this doesn't mean that all are. And Nubian crosses can give you size while maintaining the more work oriented traits of the smaller breeds.
A goat from a reputable packgoat breeder will have been bred to select for gung-ho goat qualities. Goats should show that they are well-socialized and not exhibit fear or aggressiveness toward people. By the time they are weaned, they should not be butting or jumping up on people. It's cute in kids but not in full grown spoiled monsters. Your goat should be willing to respect you, just like any other working animal.
How we do things. Training: Training begins the day a goat is born. For a good packing goat, hand raising it a must. This bonds the goat to humans; makes you a vital part of its herd. The most important training rule to remember is "love and respect your goat". Cute cuddly "kids" grow to be big strong "goats." By nature goats butt and ram each other and will do it to humans unless this is trained out of them at a very young age. The best way is by the "No horns, no heads" rule. As the owner, and dominant of the herd, humans must never "invite" a challenge. This means you do not grab the goat by its horns and tussle. And part two; if the goat lowers it head to butt, gently push its head away on the side of its face. The first year this will be the most used training technique. But as a fully grown
adult packer, that same goat is safe to turn your back on, will follow, anywhere, and wants very much to make you, the human dominant(s) happy. Collar and leash training for your goat must also start very early. They love to walk; they love to be with their herd. They do not like to be pulled on a leash, but many areas require leads on all pack animals, so start them, even before they are weaned. Never yell or hit the goat, this makes them resentful. But like a well trained dog, coax and reward the goat. That first year is the best time to get them to cross water. Most goats don't do this naturally and will find many ingenious ways NOT to get wet. But if fording a river is necessary on a hike, your goat must be able to do it. We actually walk stream beds, so the goats at some point must go through water to follow. Often they will wait until we are out of sight before "plunging in" but all will come before being left behind.
What Do I Need to Consider if I Decide to Purchase a Goat? Land – 100 sq. ft. per goat. Fencing – 5-ft. high field/horse fencing. (With horned goats 4" squares recommend) Shelter – Covered, with at least three sides, dry and blocks main wind flow. Food - hay: alfalfa/grass mix and vitamins. Mineral salt lick. And protein treats Water – fresh daily. Health Care – yearly checkups, worming, yearly vaccinations, and hooves trimmed every 3 to 6 weeks. Companionship – consider 2 goats to keep each other company. Care Cost – about $15 to $20 per month. Exercise – a hike a week or walks during the week. An exercised goat is a healthy goat. Training Time – plan to spend a few minutes each day with the goat to work on commands as well as for bonding
Statistics how much can one carry? Goats can easily carry 1/4 of their total body weight. Fully conditioned packers can reach up to 1/3. A large fully grown wether can easily carry 40 to 60 pounds of gear. That's a lot of stuff, and if you need more you can just add another goat! When can they pack? Too young? Goats can start training with a soft pack (1lb. max weight) at 8 or 9 months. Small loads by (5lbs-10lbs) between 1 1/2 and 2; once a full sized saddle will fit. Between 2 and 4 years, they can carry full (1/4) loads. DO NOT over pack during these two years, as they are still growing! To old? Healthy, well cared for and conditioned goats can pack for many years. We have heard of some that are 15 years plus
Get to know your veterinarian, especially first time owners of pack goats. They will fast become your best friend and advice counselors. Second best source is the Packgoat list online. This is a free list and very informative as goat packers help each other. (See link page to subscribe to the All About Pack goats list)
Goats are easy to care for. These are the signs of a healthy goat. Eyes clear and bright. Tearing or cloudy eyes probably mean a pinkeye infection. Coat smooth and shiny. A dull coat could indicate parasites. Fluffed up coat means the goat is not feeling well. Appetite good. Attitude alert. Hunched back and droopy tail mean something is wrong. Goat Statistics Body Temperature: 102.5° F-104° F Pulse/heart rate: 60 to 80 beats per minute Respiration rate: 15 to 30 breaths per minute
Making the Wether: Banding vs. Surgical Castration We've as yet, have not physically done this ourselves. By the time we get the goats, the
breeders have already done this for us. So the following suggestion and comments are from a veterinarian. Pack goats should be Castrated at 4-6 months, as there is less scarring to result in stricture of the urethra in wethers. Banding earlier as is common, leaves scarring in this area. Castration can be done with Ketamine, a quick acting anesthetic, with the kid up and active again very quickly. Also early castration at about 3 months keeps the growth plates open longer, resulting in a little leggier goat. Because of wethers tendency for urinary tract problems later in life, banding is not the best choice for a packgoat prospect.
Worming: Giving advice on frequency of worming is not easy, as too many factors are involved. The area you live in and the immediate environment your goats live in. Lots of animals in a small space may require worming every 2 months. While few animals on acres of land, may never need worming at all. The best way to know your needs is to do (or have done) a fecal exam before you worm unless your animals are symptomatic. And do another 2 weeks later to see if the drug you used was effective. The tests don't cost much, or with training can be done by the owner. Goats metabolize worm medications faster than other species. That is why they need a higher dose of most worm medications than horse, cattle and even sheep. Another good idea is to rotate the brand of wormer, so that you are not using the same on every two months (if frequent worming is indicated in your area) This is advised by many caprine trained Veterinarians. Routine worming when unnecessary only leads to drug resistant parasites, animals with little or no natural resistance and spending lots of money. Your local veterinarian or breeder can provide the best advice about general conditions that lead to or away from worming in your immediate area.
Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis Syndrome: Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis Syndrome (CAE) is a viral disease. In young kids symptoms include a weakness in the rear legs, with no fever, or loss of appetite. However, the unused legs lose muscle strength and structure and the infected kids eventually die. In older goats, the same disease is seen as swollen joints, particularly the knees. The disease develops slowly, and after 2 or more years, the animal has difficulty using its legs properly. Infected goats have no fever, remain alert, and eat well. However, they do not recover from the arthritis. An inexpensive blood test can be used to diagnose CAE. The disease is spread from older infected goats to kids, perhaps by contact or through the milk from an infected doe to her kid. There are no corrective procedures or treatments. Isolating kids at birth and raising them on pasteurized goat milk is done to prevent the spread. It's a good idea to make sure a goat is CAE free before purchasing. However, the blood test only checks for antibodies, and it's possible that an animal is infected and not (yet) producing antibodies.
Pack Goat Nutrition Pack goats should get 1-½% to 2% of their body weight in feed daily. This means that a 100 pound pack goat needs about 2 pounds of feed a day. A working pack goat needs about 2% to 3% of their body weight in feed per day. If a goat seems to be a little thin, add ½% to 1% more feed each day. When working, a pack goat needs extra fats and proteins which help their muscles work well. Fats and proteins come from the grain mixture. The grain mixture should consist of vitamins and minerals along with oil for fat - corn, oats and/or barley for protein. Most packers agree that wethered pack goats should not be fed a continuous grain diet, nor should they be fed a continuous diet of alfalfa. Grass hay tends to be the best. Alfalfa and grain should not be overfed to pack goats. Wethered goats are prone to urinary calculi (caused by too much phosphorus and not enough calcium). Urinary calculi in a pack goat can be life threatening. To avoid problems with urinary calculi, the grain mixture should be at least 2 or 3 parts calcium to 1 part phosphorus. A goat should have plenty of fresh water daily. In areas that are deficient in the mineral selenium be sure
that goats get a mineral mixture that contains selenium (a horse or cattle salt mixture or block works well). In any area a mineral salt lick is preferred, made for that area's deficiencies.
Which Breed is Best? It's anyone's guess and a lot of personal preferences.
What Kind of Goats? There are six breeds of Dairy Goats that are registered with the American Dairy Goat Association that are most commonly used for pack goats. A pack goat can be any breed or cross-breed of goat. All the breeds have different personalities and different physical characteristics. If you are interested you should check out as many breeds as possible before making your purchase. A good pack goat needs to have long, good, strong legs. Personality is a major component of a good pack goat. A good temperament makes up for a lot of size faults with a pack goat. [Taz is one of our smallest goats, But he has endurance and "heart" to spare on long treks. Like the energizer rabbit.] Most pack goats are wethers (neutered males) because they tend to get larger than the females and do not have the odor and behavior problems of bucks.
Alpines The Alpine is a breed of goat that originated in the Alps. The goats of Alpine type that were brought to the United States from France where they had been selected for much greater uniformity, size, and production than was true of the goats that were taken from Switzerland to France. Size and production rather than color pattern have been stressed in the development of the Alpine. No distinct color has been established, and it may range from pure white through shades of fawn, gray, brown, black, red, bluff, piebald, or various shadings or combinations of these colors. Both sexes are generally short haired, but bucks usually have a roach of long hair along the spine. The beard of males is also quite pronounced. The ears in the Alpine should be of medium size, fine textured, and preferably erect. Alpines are attractive animals with white and/or black facial stripes. Color is of little significance to the packer, but to the breeder it is important because the prettier ones tend to sale first. [Unless, like us, you pre-order from a breeder that only breeds what are sold and future breeding stock We agree to accept one of the male kids, sight unseen.] Alpines are fine boned and a little smaller than Saanens or Toggenburgs, but the quest for the monster Alpine to rival or surpass these bigger breeds is firmly under way among reputable pack goat breeders. Mature females should stand not less than 30 inches at the withers and should weigh not less than 135 pounds. Males should stand from 34 to 40 inches at the withers and should weigh not less than 170 pounds. Alpine horns are distinctive, blacker and more tubular, taller scimitar shape. (More antelope looking.) Alpines are hardy, adaptable animals that thrive in any climate while maintaining good health. They are very agile on rocks and very friendly but tend to show increasing independence after two years of age. Weak pasterns occur in some bloodlines, but seldom affect an exercised wether. They train easily and are very in tune to the people with whom they work. Watching for slight movements or gestures, even making eye contact with humans – traits not as common in other breeds. Docile and friendly, but with instincts running at high gear. Only Toggs are as (or more) alert on the trail. Don't ever offend your Alpine wither – he can be sensitive and high-strung after about age three. Alpines tend to be affectionate with people (when it's their idea) and detest being left behind. An older, experienced Alpine can be surprisingly trail wise, remembering the exact lay of a trail it's been on before, even when the trail is covered by a foot of snow, or remembering significant details about a route off the trail. (Even with years between times on the trail.) Any experienced goat can develop this sense, but Alpines seem to be the most adept at it.
LaManchas This Spanish breed originated in Oregon from short eared goats of a type found not only in
LaMancha, but throughout Spain. It has excellent dairy temperament and is an all around sturdy animal that can withstand a great deal of hardship. The LaMancha is (like the Obers) one of the smaller breed used for pack goats. The LaMancha face is straight with the ears (or lack of) being the distinctive breed characteristic. The external, visible part of the ear is like a little tuft with no cartilage. LaManchas come in about any color you like. The hair is short, fine and glossy. Horns are of a lighter brown or black, and smallish, tending to curl back more little the Big-Horn sheep as the animal ages. LaManchas are one of the most consistently lovable and agreeable of all the breeds for a pack goat. Bonding with humans is exceptional. LaManchas will follow you anywhere and therefore are a little easier to train. (In fact the term – underfoot – fits them well.) They are possibly the most intelligent breed. You have to experience the LaMancha to fully appreciate them. [We have loved our Munchies and Munchy mixes. "In Trouble" is another term that they wear well. These boys are the first to cross the ‘camp line' and enter tents, check out the fire, investigate the gear and so on. The LaMancha breeder we acquired Star from told us a good axiom: You will either have to love them, or you will hate them; Munchy's do not allow a middle ground.]
Nubians (correct Registry Name: Anglo Nubian) Nubians were developed in England by crossing British goats with bucks of African and Indian origin. The Anglo Nubian is an all-purpose goat, useful for meat, milk and hides production. It is not a heavy milk producer but has a high average butter fat content. As it is the best suited of the dairy goat breeds to hot conditions, the Anglo Nubian has been used in grading-up programs in many tropical countries to increase the milk and meat production of local breeds. The Nubian is a relatively large, proud, and graceful dairy goat. A mature doe should stand at least 30 inches at the withers and weigh 135 pounds or over, while the males should stand at least 35 inches at the withers and weigh at least 175 pounds. The Nubian goat is named for Nubia, in northeastern Africa. The originally goats imported from Africa, Arabia and India were long legged, hardy goats that had some characteristics desired by goat breeders in England. English breeders crossed these imported bucks on the common short haired does of England prior to 1895 to develop the Anglo-Nubian goat. In the United States the breed is usually spoken of as the Nubian. The Nubian is regarded as an "aristocratic" appearing goat and has very long, pendulous ears that hang close to the head. The Nubian carries a decidedly Roman nose and is always short haired. Horns are thick, and tend to be flatter off the base then the other breed used for packing. Nubian's can come in about any color, solid or patterned, but black, red or tan are the most common colors, any of which may be carried on combination with white. Usually there is shorter hair on the Nubian males, particularly along the back and on the thigh, than is commonly found on the Swiss breeds. The head is the distinctive breed characteristic, with the facial profile between the eyes and the muzzle being strongly convex. The ears are long (extending at least one inch beyond the muzzle when held flat along the face), wide and pendulous. They lie close to the head at the temple and flare slightly out and well forward at the rounded tip, forming a "bell" shape. The ears are not thick, with the cartilage well defined. The hair is short, fine and glossy. Nubians are famous for the duration of milk production and the high butterfat content of their milk. They are also famous in the pack goat community for lying down in the trail when you want them to go. They tend to be the most stubborn of the goat breeds, and are noisy, making a distinctive sound. Even Nubian kids sound like they are complaining. Their size and sturdiness is desirable, but there disposition makes them nearly useless as a pack goat. [That said, all of our Nubian crossbreeds have been excellent packers. But you get "airplane ears" with crossbreeds -- the ears extend from head two or three inches then fall another two to four inches depending on the cross. These outward extending, floppy ears, tend to lend an "I can fly" look to the goat.]
Oberhaslis The Oberhasli is a Swiss dairy goat. This breed is of medium size, vigorous and alert in appearance. Its color is chamois. Does may be black but chamois is preferred. Chamois is
described as: Bay - ranging from light to a deep red bay with the later most desirable. Markings are to be: two black stripes down the face from above each eye to a black muzzle; forehead nearly all black, black stripes from the base of each ear coming to a point just back of the poll and continuing along the neck and back as a dorsal stripe to the tail; a black belly and udder; black legs below the knees and hocks; ears black inside and bay outside; bucks often have more black on the head than does, black whiskers, and black hair along the shoulders and lower chest with a mantle of black along the back. The face is straight. They have erect ears and are a medium small breed. Horns are tan with an easy scimitar curve, but more round. Oberhaslis are one of the smallest breeds used as a pack goat. But they are used for a dairy goat ‘fault' that is very common to this breed. It's called "hockiness," a tendency for the hocks of the hind legs to be turned inward. This makes a goat more agile on rocks, but obviously leaves less room for a large, pendulous udder. A hocky goat can bound up the side of a near vertical cliff. As far as the serious goat packer is concerned, the hocky tendency in the Oberhasli is a fortunate throwback to the natural form of the wild goat. Many Obers seem to be aquaphilic – they like water. [We have not seen it to the point of LIKING, but our Obers did not require water training, they simply followed us through.] This can be a definite advantage since most goats have to be trained to cross streams due to their natural fear of water. Obers have a pleasant, mellow, easygoing personality. Some breeders are working to increase the size on this breed for a better packgoat.
Saanens (pronounced: saw-nen) The Saanen dairy goat originated in Switzerland, in the Saanen Valley. Saanens are medium to large in size, weighing approximately 145 lbs/65kg, with rugged bone and plenty of vigor. Saanens are white or light cream in color, with white preferred. The hair should be short and fine, although a fringe over the spine and thighs is often present. Ears should be erect and alertly carried, preferably pointing forward. The face should be straight or dished. The breed is sensitive to excessive sunlight and performs best in cooler conditions. The provision of shade is essential and tan skin is preferable. They usually have a large udder capacity and are popular with dairies due to the quantity of milk they produce. Saanens are often big boned and sturdy. Horns are large at the base, long, tan in color, and a flattened scimitar shaped, and deeply ringed. This breed's disposition for packing is perfect – super- mellow and quiet, virtually silent on the trail and in camp. These animals are impressive, often packing up to 85 pounds in easy terrain and 60 pound in steep, rocky terrain. the lovable personality is a strong plus, Saanens are most serviceable in alpine elevation and at cooler temperatures. Their light color and pink skin is linked to a tendency to overheat in hot weather, and this holds true for Saanens that have been crossbred with other breeds. Also, some bloodlines tend to be prone to weak pasterns. Generally, this should not be cause for concern if the goats come from a genuine Packgoat breeder.
Toggenburgs The Toggenburg is a Swiss dairy goat from Toggenburg Valley of Switzerland at Obertoggenburg. They are also credited as being the oldest known dairy goat breed. This breed is medium size, sturdy, vigorous, and alert in appearance. Slightly smaller than the other Alpine breeds, the does weight at least 120lb/55kg. The hair is short or medium in length, soft, fine, and lying flat. Its color is solid varying from light fawn to dark chocolate with no preference for any shade. Distinct white markings are as follows: white ears with dark spot in middle; two white stripes down the face from above each eye to the muzzle; hind legs white from hocks to hooves; forelegs white from knees downward with a dark lien (band) below knee acceptable; a white triangle on either side of the tail; white spot may be present at root of wattles or in that area if no wattles are present. Varying degrees of cream markings instead of pure white acceptable, but not desirable. The ears are erect and carried forward. Facial lines may be dished or straight, never roman. Horns are large at the base, long, tan in color, scimitar shaped, and deeply ringed. Generally, Toggs have strong legs and strong pasterns, but beware of short legged strains (more common in the western states.) Wethers should be at least 34 inches high at the shoulder when
four years of age. Toggs are less mellow and independent the other breeds, especially as they get older. Along with these traits comes an advantageous wariness in the woods. This breed makes for an excellent watch goat which is not noisy but will stare in an alarm posture. Furthermore a goat's night vision is remarkably acute. A small tinkle bell on a Togg around camp at night will keep you aware of intruders -animal or human- beyond your own senses. Never lose your temper with or abuse a working Togg, either in the training phase or when the goat is an adult. These are very sensitive creatures that enjoy their independence. They are loyal, but from a distance. Typical behavior is to avoid being saddled, be a model packer until camp is made, then go off quickly and stare back at the human. This is merely a Togg's way of stating his independence. Be accepting. There are worth the patience. Toggenburgs perform best in cooler conditions and have great endurance.
Dairy Goat Calendar
Mary Blankevoort, DVM
Spring
Prepare for Kidding
Have kidding area cleaned and bedded with fresh straw several days before the doe’s due date.
Get supplies ready:
A good light in the delivery area.
A clean bucket for water.
Surgical scrub such as Nolvosan, or a bottle of mild detergent (Ivory, Joy) for cleaning hands and the vulva of the doe.
Obstetrical lubricant (Lubrisept, K-Y) and, if possible, disposable obstetrical gloves for assisted births.
Dry towels for cleaning and rubbing kids.
Iodine (7% tincture) for dipping navels. A small jar or film canister for individual use is handy. Dip navel immediately after birth, and repeat in 12 hours.
Scissors for umbilical cord.
Keep frozen colostrum from a safe, CAEV-free source. To heat-treat colostrum, heat colostrum to 135ºF in a double boiler or water bath and maintain temperature for one hour.
Clean bottle and nipple for feeding colostrum.
Feeding tube (12-18 French) and large syringe (35-60 cc, with catheter tip) for giving colostrum to weak kids.
CAE Prevention
Tape doe’s teats one week before due date with teat tape. This will prevent kids from possibly nursing a CAE-positive doe.
Segregate CAE-positive parturient does from the rest of the herd to prevent horizontal transmission from infected genital secretions.
Remove kids from doe immediately after birth.
Feed colostrum from a safe source within the first couple hours after birth. Give 10% of kid’s body weight within 18 hours (e.g., 13 oz. for an 8 lb. kid). Then feed pasteurized milk, CAE-free milk, or milk replacer.
Nutrition for the doe
Have pregnant does on a rising plane of nutrition in late gestation, i.e., good quality grass hay, supplement with some leafy alfalfa. Gradually increase grain ration in last few weeks to provide energy.
Disease Prevention: Does
Be sure does are boostered for CDT in last 4-6 weeks prior to due date. Consult your veterinarian for advice on selenium supplementation for does and kids in deficient areas.
Deworm doe 1-2 weeks postpartum.
Disease Prevention: Kids
Begin Coccidiosis preventive or start monitoring fecals by three weeks of age.
CDT series at 4, 8, and 12 weeks of age.
Begin deworming at 6-8 weeks.
Summer
Be sure kids have gotten their CD-T boosters (e.g., 8 - 12 - 16 weeks).
Wet weather has given parasites a big boost in many areas. Practice regular helminth (worm) control in all groups of animals. Doses of dewormers in goats are usually 2X the cow or sheep dose (4X the cattle dose for Fenbendazole--PanacurR). In the case of Ivomec, use the oral formulation. Resistance to all dewormers is appearing, so monitor success with quantitive fecal exams.
Rotate pastures every several weeks, if possible.
Coccidiostats for kids.
Check for external parasites; keep animals clipped and clean.
Be careful with grain overload during peak lactation, and when getting ready for show. Increases in concentrate feed must be made gradually, over a couple of weeks.
Be sure fresh water is present at all times. Consumption goes way up in warm weather, and during lactation.
Monitor presence of poisonous plants which may have grown within reach of animals.
When hauling in hot weather, provide good ventilation. If you break down, will animals have fresh air and water?
At show time, be careful not to “over-udder” a doe, as she can develop an allergic reaction to backed-up milk under pressure.
Build buck up for breeding season. Give him Vitamin-E/Selenium in Selenium-deficient areas. Keep feet trimmed. Give him a good diet of forage and increasing amounts of concentrate in late summer.
Fall
The Buck
Check and trim feet. Treat foot rot as necessary.
Check teeth on older bucks.
Shorten or remove scurs prior to breeding season.
Clip belly. Examine penis and prepuce for injuries and inflammation.
Check general body condition. Improve nutritional status if too thin.
De-worm.
Bo-Se in selenium-deficient areas.
The Doe
Check and trim feet before rainy season.
Correct body condition before breeding, especially if she is too fat. Fat around the ovaries may cause poor fertility. In general, corrections in body condition (too thin, too fat) are easier and safer to make before the doe is dried off.
Bo-Se in selenium-deficient areas.
Do milk cultures now, to pick up subclinical mastitis.
Consider dry-treating the herd, where mastitis has been a persistent problem.
The Herd
Check fecals in different age categories (does, kids) - to evaluate parasite loads. Treat accordingly.
Consider fall deworming, coming off summer pasture.
CAEV testing: Kids over 6 months old, new additions to the herd, any animals of questionable value or condition. Cull accordingly. Feed as few animals as possible through the winter.
Winter
Pregnancy check does early enough to be able to rebreed this season if open.
Booster vaccinations (Clostridium perfringens C & D, and Tetanus) in mid- to late-gestation at least 6 weeks prior to kidding. This promotes high colostral antibody levels at parturition.
Booster Vitamin E-Selenium in mid- to late gestation, in Selenium deficient areas. This bolsters uterine muscle tone and helps prevent uterine inertia and retained placentas.
Get does into their desired body condition while they are still milking; e.g., if too fat, reduce grain before drying up. Don’t dry her up and then starve her. There will be fewer problems with pregnancy toxemia if weight changes are made while doe is still metabolically active.
Pregnant does should get plenty of exercise. Fit and trim does are easier to freshen, less susceptible to pregnancy toxemia.
Don’t feed 100% alfalfa as a ration, especially to does in late gestation. Balance with grass hay so that does can mobilize their own calcium at the time of freshening.
Keep an eye on geriatric animals for weight loss and chilling.
Routine foot care for all animals.
Monitor for external parasites (lice) during this period where animals may spend more time indoors with less sunlight.
Eliminate moldy feed.
Get to know and enjoy your animals better during this slow time!
Material Copyright © 2004American Dairy Goat Association ®
Prepare for Kidding
Have kidding area cleaned and bedded with fresh straw several days before the doe’s due date.
Get supplies ready:
A good light in the delivery area.
A clean bucket for water.
Surgical scrub such as Nolvosan, or a bottle of mild detergent (Ivory, Joy) for cleaning hands and the vulva of the doe.
Obstetrical lubricant (Lubrisept, K-Y) and, if possible, disposable obstetrical gloves for assisted births.
Dry towels for cleaning and rubbing kids.
Iodine (7% tincture) for dipping navels. A small jar or film canister for individual use is handy. Dip navel immediately after birth, and repeat in 12 hours.
Scissors for umbilical cord.
Keep frozen colostrum from a safe, CAEV-free source. To heat-treat colostrum, heat colostrum to 135ºF in a double boiler or water bath and maintain temperature for one hour.
Clean bottle and nipple for feeding colostrum.
Feeding tube (12-18 French) and large syringe (35-60 cc, with catheter tip) for giving colostrum to weak kids.
CAE Prevention
Tape doe’s teats one week before due date with teat tape. This will prevent kids from possibly nursing a CAE-positive doe.
Segregate CAE-positive parturient does from the rest of the herd to prevent horizontal transmission from infected genital secretions.
Remove kids from doe immediately after birth.
Feed colostrum from a safe source within the first couple hours after birth. Give 10% of kid’s body weight within 18 hours (e.g., 13 oz. for an 8 lb. kid). Then feed pasteurized milk, CAE-free milk, or milk replacer.
Nutrition for the doe
Have pregnant does on a rising plane of nutrition in late gestation, i.e., good quality grass hay, supplement with some leafy alfalfa. Gradually increase grain ration in last few weeks to provide energy.
Disease Prevention: Does
Be sure does are boostered for CDT in last 4-6 weeks prior to due date. Consult your veterinarian for advice on selenium supplementation for does and kids in deficient areas.
Deworm doe 1-2 weeks postpartum.
Disease Prevention: Kids
Begin Coccidiosis preventive or start monitoring fecals by three weeks of age.
CDT series at 4, 8, and 12 weeks of age.
Begin deworming at 6-8 weeks.
Summer
Be sure kids have gotten their CD-T boosters (e.g., 8 - 12 - 16 weeks).
Wet weather has given parasites a big boost in many areas. Practice regular helminth (worm) control in all groups of animals. Doses of dewormers in goats are usually 2X the cow or sheep dose (4X the cattle dose for Fenbendazole--PanacurR). In the case of Ivomec, use the oral formulation. Resistance to all dewormers is appearing, so monitor success with quantitive fecal exams.
Rotate pastures every several weeks, if possible.
Coccidiostats for kids.
Check for external parasites; keep animals clipped and clean.
Be careful with grain overload during peak lactation, and when getting ready for show. Increases in concentrate feed must be made gradually, over a couple of weeks.
Be sure fresh water is present at all times. Consumption goes way up in warm weather, and during lactation.
Monitor presence of poisonous plants which may have grown within reach of animals.
When hauling in hot weather, provide good ventilation. If you break down, will animals have fresh air and water?
At show time, be careful not to “over-udder” a doe, as she can develop an allergic reaction to backed-up milk under pressure.
Build buck up for breeding season. Give him Vitamin-E/Selenium in Selenium-deficient areas. Keep feet trimmed. Give him a good diet of forage and increasing amounts of concentrate in late summer.
Fall
The Buck
Check and trim feet. Treat foot rot as necessary.
Check teeth on older bucks.
Shorten or remove scurs prior to breeding season.
Clip belly. Examine penis and prepuce for injuries and inflammation.
Check general body condition. Improve nutritional status if too thin.
De-worm.
Bo-Se in selenium-deficient areas.
The Doe
Check and trim feet before rainy season.
Correct body condition before breeding, especially if she is too fat. Fat around the ovaries may cause poor fertility. In general, corrections in body condition (too thin, too fat) are easier and safer to make before the doe is dried off.
Bo-Se in selenium-deficient areas.
Do milk cultures now, to pick up subclinical mastitis.
Consider dry-treating the herd, where mastitis has been a persistent problem.
The Herd
Check fecals in different age categories (does, kids) - to evaluate parasite loads. Treat accordingly.
Consider fall deworming, coming off summer pasture.
CAEV testing: Kids over 6 months old, new additions to the herd, any animals of questionable value or condition. Cull accordingly. Feed as few animals as possible through the winter.
Winter
Pregnancy check does early enough to be able to rebreed this season if open.
Booster vaccinations (Clostridium perfringens C & D, and Tetanus) in mid- to late-gestation at least 6 weeks prior to kidding. This promotes high colostral antibody levels at parturition.
Booster Vitamin E-Selenium in mid- to late gestation, in Selenium deficient areas. This bolsters uterine muscle tone and helps prevent uterine inertia and retained placentas.
Get does into their desired body condition while they are still milking; e.g., if too fat, reduce grain before drying up. Don’t dry her up and then starve her. There will be fewer problems with pregnancy toxemia if weight changes are made while doe is still metabolically active.
Pregnant does should get plenty of exercise. Fit and trim does are easier to freshen, less susceptible to pregnancy toxemia.
Don’t feed 100% alfalfa as a ration, especially to does in late gestation. Balance with grass hay so that does can mobilize their own calcium at the time of freshening.
Keep an eye on geriatric animals for weight loss and chilling.
Routine foot care for all animals.
Monitor for external parasites (lice) during this period where animals may spend more time indoors with less sunlight.
Eliminate moldy feed.
Get to know and enjoy your animals better during this slow time!
Material Copyright © 2004American Dairy Goat Association ®
Friday, 4 July 2008
Friesian Chickens
History- The Friesian is a Dutch breed and it is said that, like the cows, it comes from the Friesian Islands. It is a very old breed of bird and excavation that has taken place on the Island has shown that the Friesian chicken was around some 1000 years ago though its arrival in Great Britain is quite recent. We did not see it till the 1980s.
Behaviour- The Friesian is a small breed but at the same time a very good layer. It can produce around 230 eggs per year. Being small they do not require so much feed to be given to them. This breed is not a broody one.
Varieties- The standard colours of the Friesian are gold pencilled, silver pencilled and chamois pencilled. The chamois is the most unusual coloured of them all and the most attractive. It is different shades of yellow and buff and has a pattern that runs through each of its body feathers. This is not found in any other breed of chicken. All of the colour varieties have eyes that are orange in colour, earlobes that are white and legs that are slate blue.
Dwarf Fruit Trees
Growing Fruit Trees In Containers Indoors
People frequently want to grow some type of fruit tree in a container, usually because of poor soil, improper climate or lack of sufficient space as is often the case around apartments and condominiums. Fortunately, a wide variety of fruit trees can be grown in containers with success. One of the principal reasons for growing fruit trees in containers is portability. Thus, tropical and subtropical fruits can be grown in containers in areas where freezes might occur. The size and mobility of the containers allows the plants to be moved indoors during periods of predicated freezing temperatures. Many fruits can be successfully grown in containers: Meyer lemons (my favorite), key limes, dwarf oranges, kumquats, avocados, dwarf bananas, papaya, guava, blackberry, dwarf grapefruit, blueberry and fig are among the best suited for growing indoors and out in a small space. Most will produce some fruit if given proper care. The list is by no means complete, as most fruit trees could be grown in containers if the size of the container were not a problem. [The wider availability of many types of dwarf fruit trees also greatly increases the choices that container gardeners have.] Containers may be plastic, metal, clay, ceramic, wood or any others normally available at nurseries and garden supply stores. Used whisky barrels cut in half are excellent or wooden boxes may be built to order. The container should have adequate holes at the bottom for drainage of excess water. Potting the drainage holes of the container may be covered with pieces of screen mesh to prevent the soil from washing out. A layer of gravel 1-2 in. (2-5 cm) should be placed in the bottom of the container to facilitate drainage. Any commercial potting soil should be suitable for growing fruit trees. However, a mixture of 1 part sand, 1 part peat and 1 part bark, perlite or vermiculite will also serve quite well. The potting medium should be loose enough to permit adequate but not excessive drainage. Examine the root system of the plant. If it is pot-bound or has experienced severe root crowding in its previous container, judiciously prune some of the larger roots and loosen others to facilitate root proliferation in the new container. The container should be partially filled with soil (large containers should be filled at the site they are expected to remain). Place the plant in the partially filled container of soil to its correct planting depth which is the depth at which the plant was previously grown. The final soil surface should be 1-4 in. (2-10 cm) below the rim of the container, in direct proportion to container size, to allow for watering. Complete filling the container and firm the soil around the plant. Water thoroughly but do not fertilize until new growth commences. An attractive mulch of bark, gravel or other material can be added to improve the appearance of the container. LightMost fruit crops grow best in full sunlight, but some will do well in partial shade. However, plants grow in direct proportion to the amount of light received, if other conditions are optimum, so container grown fruit trees should be placed where they will receive maximum sunlight. It is important that rapid changes in light exposure be avoided, i.e. plants growing in partial shade should not be suddenly exposed to complete, direct sunlight. Any plants that are to be grown indoors part of the year should be acclimated by gradually reducing the light to which they are exposed for 2-23 weeks before moving them inside and vice versa for plants being moved outdoors. Such acclimation is not necessary for plants that are to be moved indoors for few days during freezes. TemperatureTropical and subtropical fruit trees cannot tolerate freezing temperatures for very long. Some will be killed back to the soil by mild freezes while only small twigs will be killed on others. Some root damage can occur because the root system is not as well insulated from cold in a container as it would be in the ground.Cold hardiness depends on the plant, the care it receives and many other factors. Protection from severe cold is essential for all tropical and subtropical fruits growing in containers. Plants may be covered temporarily with blankets, paper or other material as protection against hard freezes, but such material should be removed each morning to allow the plants to take full advantage of incoming solar radiation. Plants moved indoors during cold spells should be placed away from drafts caused by doors and heating ducts.WaterMost container grown plants that do not thrive are usually in poor condition due to faulty watering practices, usually overwatering. Plants growing in containers should be watered only as needed. The frequency of watering depends upon such variables as type and size of plant, type and size of container, temperature, humidity, potting medium and other factors. For most plants, the upper surface of the soil should be allowed to become dry to the touch before watering. Then water thoroughly by slowly filling the container. Good drainage of excess water from the container is essential. The soil in plastic, metal and ceramic containers generally stays wet longer than it does in wood or clay containers, which allow water to evaporate through the sides. Cool weather generally slows plant growth and this reduces the plant's need for moisture, so watering should be less frequent during cool weather. FertilizerGood nutrition is essential to the success of container-grown fruit trees, but excess fertilizer can result in overgrowth, poor fruit and possible dieback due to salt accumulation. Water-soluble fertilizers are widely available and should be used according to label directions. If mature foliage is deep green in color, adequate fertilizer is being used. Many fertilizers can be used successfully, provided they are complete and balanced. The fertilizer should contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in balanced proportions and should include lesser amounts or traces of magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc and copper. The ingredients and quantities of each nutrient contained are listed on the fertilizer label. Salt accumulation may sometimes be a problem and is often indicated by a white crust on the soil or container and may be due to excess fertilization and/or water containing considerable soluble salts. Should this occur, the container should be thoroughly leached by slowly running water through the container for several minutes. This will carry excess salts down through the soil and out the drainage holes. PruningWith few exceptions, fruit trees will develop and maintain their natural shape with little or no training or pruning. They will occasionally become "leggy" when grown indoors or in poor light for too long. Leggy branches should be partially cut back to force branching and bushiness. Frequently, the top will grow rather large and begin to exceed the capability of the root system. Consequently, some leaf shed and twig dieback will often occur. Such plants should be pruned back heavily to rejuvenate them. When plants area heavily pruned, less fertilizer and water will be necessary to compensate for the reduced plant size. Fruitfulness most fruit crops will produce fruit in containers, given time, good care and adequate size and age. However, naturally large fruit trees will require larger containers to bear much fruit, as the amount of fruit produced is proportional to the plant's size, so large yields should not be expected. Many fruit plants need to be large in order to fruit at all, so their size can quickly become limiting in containers. Some fruit crops also require the presence of pollenizer cultivars and pollinating insects. Flowers can be pollinated by hand if needed.
People frequently want to grow some type of fruit tree in a container, usually because of poor soil, improper climate or lack of sufficient space as is often the case around apartments and condominiums. Fortunately, a wide variety of fruit trees can be grown in containers with success. One of the principal reasons for growing fruit trees in containers is portability. Thus, tropical and subtropical fruits can be grown in containers in areas where freezes might occur. The size and mobility of the containers allows the plants to be moved indoors during periods of predicated freezing temperatures. Many fruits can be successfully grown in containers: Meyer lemons (my favorite), key limes, dwarf oranges, kumquats, avocados, dwarf bananas, papaya, guava, blackberry, dwarf grapefruit, blueberry and fig are among the best suited for growing indoors and out in a small space. Most will produce some fruit if given proper care. The list is by no means complete, as most fruit trees could be grown in containers if the size of the container were not a problem. [The wider availability of many types of dwarf fruit trees also greatly increases the choices that container gardeners have.] Containers may be plastic, metal, clay, ceramic, wood or any others normally available at nurseries and garden supply stores. Used whisky barrels cut in half are excellent or wooden boxes may be built to order. The container should have adequate holes at the bottom for drainage of excess water. Potting the drainage holes of the container may be covered with pieces of screen mesh to prevent the soil from washing out. A layer of gravel 1-2 in. (2-5 cm) should be placed in the bottom of the container to facilitate drainage. Any commercial potting soil should be suitable for growing fruit trees. However, a mixture of 1 part sand, 1 part peat and 1 part bark, perlite or vermiculite will also serve quite well. The potting medium should be loose enough to permit adequate but not excessive drainage. Examine the root system of the plant. If it is pot-bound or has experienced severe root crowding in its previous container, judiciously prune some of the larger roots and loosen others to facilitate root proliferation in the new container. The container should be partially filled with soil (large containers should be filled at the site they are expected to remain). Place the plant in the partially filled container of soil to its correct planting depth which is the depth at which the plant was previously grown. The final soil surface should be 1-4 in. (2-10 cm) below the rim of the container, in direct proportion to container size, to allow for watering. Complete filling the container and firm the soil around the plant. Water thoroughly but do not fertilize until new growth commences. An attractive mulch of bark, gravel or other material can be added to improve the appearance of the container. LightMost fruit crops grow best in full sunlight, but some will do well in partial shade. However, plants grow in direct proportion to the amount of light received, if other conditions are optimum, so container grown fruit trees should be placed where they will receive maximum sunlight. It is important that rapid changes in light exposure be avoided, i.e. plants growing in partial shade should not be suddenly exposed to complete, direct sunlight. Any plants that are to be grown indoors part of the year should be acclimated by gradually reducing the light to which they are exposed for 2-23 weeks before moving them inside and vice versa for plants being moved outdoors. Such acclimation is not necessary for plants that are to be moved indoors for few days during freezes. TemperatureTropical and subtropical fruit trees cannot tolerate freezing temperatures for very long. Some will be killed back to the soil by mild freezes while only small twigs will be killed on others. Some root damage can occur because the root system is not as well insulated from cold in a container as it would be in the ground.Cold hardiness depends on the plant, the care it receives and many other factors. Protection from severe cold is essential for all tropical and subtropical fruits growing in containers. Plants may be covered temporarily with blankets, paper or other material as protection against hard freezes, but such material should be removed each morning to allow the plants to take full advantage of incoming solar radiation. Plants moved indoors during cold spells should be placed away from drafts caused by doors and heating ducts.WaterMost container grown plants that do not thrive are usually in poor condition due to faulty watering practices, usually overwatering. Plants growing in containers should be watered only as needed. The frequency of watering depends upon such variables as type and size of plant, type and size of container, temperature, humidity, potting medium and other factors. For most plants, the upper surface of the soil should be allowed to become dry to the touch before watering. Then water thoroughly by slowly filling the container. Good drainage of excess water from the container is essential. The soil in plastic, metal and ceramic containers generally stays wet longer than it does in wood or clay containers, which allow water to evaporate through the sides. Cool weather generally slows plant growth and this reduces the plant's need for moisture, so watering should be less frequent during cool weather. FertilizerGood nutrition is essential to the success of container-grown fruit trees, but excess fertilizer can result in overgrowth, poor fruit and possible dieback due to salt accumulation. Water-soluble fertilizers are widely available and should be used according to label directions. If mature foliage is deep green in color, adequate fertilizer is being used. Many fertilizers can be used successfully, provided they are complete and balanced. The fertilizer should contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in balanced proportions and should include lesser amounts or traces of magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc and copper. The ingredients and quantities of each nutrient contained are listed on the fertilizer label. Salt accumulation may sometimes be a problem and is often indicated by a white crust on the soil or container and may be due to excess fertilization and/or water containing considerable soluble salts. Should this occur, the container should be thoroughly leached by slowly running water through the container for several minutes. This will carry excess salts down through the soil and out the drainage holes. PruningWith few exceptions, fruit trees will develop and maintain their natural shape with little or no training or pruning. They will occasionally become "leggy" when grown indoors or in poor light for too long. Leggy branches should be partially cut back to force branching and bushiness. Frequently, the top will grow rather large and begin to exceed the capability of the root system. Consequently, some leaf shed and twig dieback will often occur. Such plants should be pruned back heavily to rejuvenate them. When plants area heavily pruned, less fertilizer and water will be necessary to compensate for the reduced plant size. Fruitfulness most fruit crops will produce fruit in containers, given time, good care and adequate size and age. However, naturally large fruit trees will require larger containers to bear much fruit, as the amount of fruit produced is proportional to the plant's size, so large yields should not be expected. Many fruit plants need to be large in order to fruit at all, so their size can quickly become limiting in containers. Some fruit crops also require the presence of pollenizer cultivars and pollinating insects. Flowers can be pollinated by hand if needed.
Sunday, 29 June 2008
How to milk profits from goat farming
By Caitriona Murphy
Tuesday May 27 2008
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty tough.
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty toughUp to 10 new enquiries every week. Four brand new commercial units this year. Foundation stock like gold dust and soaring prices for young stock.
Modern, health conscious and organic, goat farming is fast becoming the rural equivalent of the smoothie bar.
Our new-found fascination with all things pure and natural has driven demand for goat's milk, yoghurt and cheese to the point where mothers exchange tips on the internet on the best way to secure their supply.
Allergy to cow's milk is the most common food allergy in childhood, and affects between 2pc and 7pc of babies under one year of age, although up to 90pc are resolved by the age of three.
Although the constituents of goat's milk are broadly similar to cow's milk, the fat and protein type and structure are quite different, and children can digest it more easily. Anecdotal evidence suggests that goat's milk could be beneficial to the country's 475,000 registered asthmatics and the 23pc of the population who suffer from allergies.
"One word of advice is to buy in bulk as they fly off the shelf. You could even find out what day it's delivered and buy your week's supply on that day," reads the missive from one mother.
"I managed to find out the delivery date in one shop and it saved my life as people literally buy five or six litres at a time," reads another.
High demand
Farmers and other rural dwellers have cottoned on to the fact that this high demand could leave them with a healthy profit in their pocket by setting up a goat farm.
The goat population is on the increase, with 8,000 goats recorded in 2007. With more than 300 goat holdings in the country, 200 of these have less than 10 goats.
At the other end of the spectrum, there are several large-scale producers who have several hundred goats each. Four new units of 200, 250, 300 and 400 goats are coming on stream this year. In fact the only limiting factor to the growth of the population is the scarcity of foundation stock.
Enquiries about goat farming to Teagasc have doubled in the last year and one of the country's top goat farmers says he never has a week without two or three visits from potential new entrants.
However, Teagasc adviser and goat specialist John Twomey has warned that goat farming could become the new deer farming. "Too many people blindly rushed into deer farming," he says. "There is a danger that too many of the wrong type of people could get into goat farming."
Often typecast as a tough, resilient animal, capable of fending for itself and requiring little input, it will surprise many to hear that the goat requires more intensive management than the best dairy cows in the country.
"The general perception is that they are hardy creatures that would live on fresh air," says John. "But you couldn't be more wrong. Goats are the most refined and selective of all the farm animals.
"They are browsers rather than grazers so they pick and choose what they eat and never touch soiled food. A goat would die of thirst rather than drink dirty water," he says.
Extremely susceptible to listeriosis and associated problems, musty hay and silage are a serious no-no for the animals as they quickly develop illness and die easily.
No sub-cutaneous fat
Despite their reputation for surviving alone in harsh mountain areas, it appears that goats are softer than we realise. They have little or no sub-cutaneous fat, which makes them very vulnerable to cold and wet conditions.
"The goats you see on the mountain never rear more than one kid and even that's a struggle," says John. "Our dairy goats need shelter from the wind and rain or else they will get a chill or pneumonia."
In fact, most dairy goats are kept indoors permanently to protect them from extremes of weather and even the collecting yard for the milking parlour is covered to prevent chills.
Changes to their diet must be very gradual to prevent stomach upset and even the introduction of new animals to the herd can cause major stress within the group. It can take up to two years for a group of goats to settle and stop fighting.
Jan Boons is a Dutch man who relocated from Holland to Ireland in 2000 to set up his own dairy goat herd. His background was not in goats but in cows, with his father producing organic milk from his 120-cow herd.
Jan's interest in goats began in Holland as more of a hobby. "I preferred them to cows because they were more pleasant, they had more character," he explains.
When he first moved to Lorrha, Nenagh in Co Tipperary he brought 80 milking goats with him and has since built his herd up to 240 milkers.
Producing 900l of milk on average, the goats are kept indoors all year round and fed home-grown silage that is cut by January and baled by a local contractor. A specially-designed goat ration was proving too expensive to feed, so an 18pc protein dairy cow nut replaced it in recent years.
During the summer, grass is cut off the 57ac farm and brought indoors to the goats.
"It's too awkward to leave the goats to graze outdoors," he says. "I would have to bring them in every time it rained and they would be in and out all day.
"As well as that, they are not good grazers -- it's their nature to pick at bits here and there, not graze each paddock down to the last."
Goats are highly-strung animals that tend to frighten easily and even the slightest disturbance can cause mass panic and trigger a stampede in the paddock that increases the stress and reduces milk production.
The goats are kept indoors in straw-bedded sheds and divided according to their status. Two hundred milking goats are kept in one shed, while another 100 young females are reared in another shed.
Females due to kid down are separated from the main herd to avoid injury. Around 95pc of them kid without any assistance and, unlike their bovine counterparts, rarely give birth at night.
Useless males
Female kids are taken from their mothers within two days and hand reared on artificial milk because it would be too expensive to rear them on goat's milk.
Male kids have little or no economic value and are put down immediately after birth and sent to the local knackery.
"There is just no market for them and they cost too much to bring up. They are more expensive than sheep to rear," explains the farmer.
Twin births are the most common occurrence, although singles and triplets are also born. Although Jan does not select his goats on their birth rate, it is most often the bigger twin-producing goats that give most milk and are less likely to be culled.
Light treatment is used to extend the breeding season for the herd because the demand for milk is highest during the natural off-season. Lights remain on for 20 hours out of 24 for a period of two months and then all light is switched off for one month to induce heat in the females and prepare the bucks for service.
Although he brought his own pump and receiver jar for the 20-unit milking parlour with him from Holland, there is no problem sourcing goat equipment in Ireland.
"There is no real specialised goat machinery supplier, but the main cow suppliers have all the right equipment," explains Jan.
With the price of goat milk hovering around 69c/l, the Glenisk supplier says there has been talk of a price rise for the last four or five months but no sign of it coming yet.
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty tough.
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty tough.
Tuesday May 27 2008
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty tough.
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty toughUp to 10 new enquiries every week. Four brand new commercial units this year. Foundation stock like gold dust and soaring prices for young stock.
Modern, health conscious and organic, goat farming is fast becoming the rural equivalent of the smoothie bar.
Our new-found fascination with all things pure and natural has driven demand for goat's milk, yoghurt and cheese to the point where mothers exchange tips on the internet on the best way to secure their supply.
Allergy to cow's milk is the most common food allergy in childhood, and affects between 2pc and 7pc of babies under one year of age, although up to 90pc are resolved by the age of three.
Although the constituents of goat's milk are broadly similar to cow's milk, the fat and protein type and structure are quite different, and children can digest it more easily. Anecdotal evidence suggests that goat's milk could be beneficial to the country's 475,000 registered asthmatics and the 23pc of the population who suffer from allergies.
"One word of advice is to buy in bulk as they fly off the shelf. You could even find out what day it's delivered and buy your week's supply on that day," reads the missive from one mother.
"I managed to find out the delivery date in one shop and it saved my life as people literally buy five or six litres at a time," reads another.
High demand
Farmers and other rural dwellers have cottoned on to the fact that this high demand could leave them with a healthy profit in their pocket by setting up a goat farm.
The goat population is on the increase, with 8,000 goats recorded in 2007. With more than 300 goat holdings in the country, 200 of these have less than 10 goats.
At the other end of the spectrum, there are several large-scale producers who have several hundred goats each. Four new units of 200, 250, 300 and 400 goats are coming on stream this year. In fact the only limiting factor to the growth of the population is the scarcity of foundation stock.
Enquiries about goat farming to Teagasc have doubled in the last year and one of the country's top goat farmers says he never has a week without two or three visits from potential new entrants.
However, Teagasc adviser and goat specialist John Twomey has warned that goat farming could become the new deer farming. "Too many people blindly rushed into deer farming," he says. "There is a danger that too many of the wrong type of people could get into goat farming."
Often typecast as a tough, resilient animal, capable of fending for itself and requiring little input, it will surprise many to hear that the goat requires more intensive management than the best dairy cows in the country.
"The general perception is that they are hardy creatures that would live on fresh air," says John. "But you couldn't be more wrong. Goats are the most refined and selective of all the farm animals.
"They are browsers rather than grazers so they pick and choose what they eat and never touch soiled food. A goat would die of thirst rather than drink dirty water," he says.
Extremely susceptible to listeriosis and associated problems, musty hay and silage are a serious no-no for the animals as they quickly develop illness and die easily.
No sub-cutaneous fat
Despite their reputation for surviving alone in harsh mountain areas, it appears that goats are softer than we realise. They have little or no sub-cutaneous fat, which makes them very vulnerable to cold and wet conditions.
"The goats you see on the mountain never rear more than one kid and even that's a struggle," says John. "Our dairy goats need shelter from the wind and rain or else they will get a chill or pneumonia."
In fact, most dairy goats are kept indoors permanently to protect them from extremes of weather and even the collecting yard for the milking parlour is covered to prevent chills.
Changes to their diet must be very gradual to prevent stomach upset and even the introduction of new animals to the herd can cause major stress within the group. It can take up to two years for a group of goats to settle and stop fighting.
Jan Boons is a Dutch man who relocated from Holland to Ireland in 2000 to set up his own dairy goat herd. His background was not in goats but in cows, with his father producing organic milk from his 120-cow herd.
Jan's interest in goats began in Holland as more of a hobby. "I preferred them to cows because they were more pleasant, they had more character," he explains.
When he first moved to Lorrha, Nenagh in Co Tipperary he brought 80 milking goats with him and has since built his herd up to 240 milkers.
Producing 900l of milk on average, the goats are kept indoors all year round and fed home-grown silage that is cut by January and baled by a local contractor. A specially-designed goat ration was proving too expensive to feed, so an 18pc protein dairy cow nut replaced it in recent years.
During the summer, grass is cut off the 57ac farm and brought indoors to the goats.
"It's too awkward to leave the goats to graze outdoors," he says. "I would have to bring them in every time it rained and they would be in and out all day.
"As well as that, they are not good grazers -- it's their nature to pick at bits here and there, not graze each paddock down to the last."
Goats are highly-strung animals that tend to frighten easily and even the slightest disturbance can cause mass panic and trigger a stampede in the paddock that increases the stress and reduces milk production.
The goats are kept indoors in straw-bedded sheds and divided according to their status. Two hundred milking goats are kept in one shed, while another 100 young females are reared in another shed.
Females due to kid down are separated from the main herd to avoid injury. Around 95pc of them kid without any assistance and, unlike their bovine counterparts, rarely give birth at night.
Useless males
Female kids are taken from their mothers within two days and hand reared on artificial milk because it would be too expensive to rear them on goat's milk.
Male kids have little or no economic value and are put down immediately after birth and sent to the local knackery.
"There is just no market for them and they cost too much to bring up. They are more expensive than sheep to rear," explains the farmer.
Twin births are the most common occurrence, although singles and triplets are also born. Although Jan does not select his goats on their birth rate, it is most often the bigger twin-producing goats that give most milk and are less likely to be culled.
Light treatment is used to extend the breeding season for the herd because the demand for milk is highest during the natural off-season. Lights remain on for 20 hours out of 24 for a period of two months and then all light is switched off for one month to induce heat in the females and prepare the bucks for service.
Although he brought his own pump and receiver jar for the 20-unit milking parlour with him from Holland, there is no problem sourcing goat equipment in Ireland.
"There is no real specialised goat machinery supplier, but the main cow suppliers have all the right equipment," explains Jan.
With the price of goat milk hovering around 69c/l, the Glenisk supplier says there has been talk of a price rise for the last four or five months but no sign of it coming yet.
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty tough.
Farmers are cottoning on to the demand for goat’s milk. But farming them can be pretty tough.
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